13.7.09
  Passing by Some Castles

When travelling around, you not only see lots of landscape (far more than you can ever photograph out of moving vehicles) but also a few interesting buildings. I managed to catch two castles on my journey which I didn't really visit, but of which I got some nice pictures nevertheless.

Dunollie Castle

The one that looks like some Maya ruins in the rainforest is Dunollie Castle near Oban which I caught from the sun deck of the Mull ferry.

Dunollie Castle, closeup

A proof that Scotland can be very green in parts. The west coast climate seems to be ideal for vines; they're really taking over the ruins.

Loch Awe

I saw Loch Awe from the Glasgow / Oban train, and a few days later I got even closer during what I call my Inveraray adventure. I'll tell you more about that in another post; for now let me just say that public transport in Scotland on a Sunday is more or less inexistant.

There's a castle on the photo above, if you take a close look.

Kilchurn Castle

On the way back I managed to get a lot closer. That picturesque beauty is Kilchurn Castle.

Kilchurn Castle; another view

For one I was on the wrong side of Loch Awe, and Kilchurn Castle is only open to public on some days In July and August, but at least I had the chance to take some photos.

Closeup of the castle

This view of the castle is more or less a classic. It graces more than one travel guidebook (the ones that don't have Eilean Donan Castle, anyway), though in most cases the pictures have been taken in autumn. But it's quite a splendid sight in summer, too.
 


2.7.09
  It's Too Hot

Up to 30°C in the afternoons, and a humidity of 90% - at least if feels that way. That constellation leads to some nasty thunderstorms as well. Fortunately the worst ones have missed my place so far, but there'll be an increased risk of thunderstorms during the weekend. And I so don't like it hot; I want to go back to Scotland where there's usually a cool breeze from the sea.

Oban in the evening sun

It's also no fun to have a cold in weather like this; it sorta feels wrong. Colds belong in winter so you can coddle yourself with hot tea and blankets.
 


27.6.09
  Blogger Comment Problems

Dear friends,

I've had increasing problems to comment on some blogs those last weeks. I've tried to figure out where the reason lies, and it seems that the setting where the main text and sidebar appear on the comment page causes the problems - that is esp. the blogs of Susan Higginbotham, Alianore and Lady D (because I read those regularly). In addition, there may be trouble because of the Followers widget (that collection of user icons on the sidebar).

On good days those blogs only close my browser, on bad days they freeze it and I have to restart the computer. It's not the fault of my dear old laptop, either; I've had the same problems when I use the other computer.

A comment setting like mine (that is also used by fe. Carla and Meghan) doesn't cause any trouble. *knocks on wood*

Thus I would be really grateful if my blogger friends would consider using that comment template instead the wonky one, and perhaps get rid of the Followers* widget as well - maybe as a second step if trouble persists. It's a shame that I can't comment on some blogs.

* There are several posts on the Blogger Support Group about that one causing trouble, so I'm by far not the only victim.
 


24.6.09
  Crossing to Mull

I took the ferry from Oban to Craignure / Mull twice. The first pics were taken on a sunny early afternoon with a stiff breeze going on. There were some drama queen clouds, but they never did any harm.

Kerrera


Approaching Mull


The coast of Morvern on the other sideof the Sound of Mull

The second set was taken on a late evening two days later, on the way back from the trip to Staffa and Iona. There had been a few showers during the night and the morming, and the air was much hazier, though the sea was calmer.

Mull, again


Morvern coast and entrance to Loch Linnhe, veiled in haze


Lismore Lighthouse

The light is never the same for five minutes, a challenge but also a lot of fun for a photographer. Though none of the photos matches reality.
 


18.6.09
  Mountains, Midges, and Many Photos

I'm back with a whole bunch of pictures. Yes, I know that's the most important point. *grin*

The weather wasn't too bad; there were nasty showers only on two days, and it was pretty warm overall as well. I even managed to get a sunburn, despite using sunscreen. Only those midges - sigh. They really can teach Edward the Angsty Vampire a few things about bloodsucking.

Sunset in Oban

The landscape of the Highlands is breathtakingly beautiful. The mountains, the water, that incredible, ever changing light .... I could go on forever. Well, instead I better give you some impressions of what to come the next weeks, or rather, months. I have a lot of material. See posts below.
 


  Scotland Picspam, the First

Here's the first post with pictures of places I've visited.

Edinburgh Castle


Dunfermline Abbey


Inchcolm Abbey


Linlithgow Palace


Stirling Castle


Dunkeld


Doune Castle


Antonine Wall


Hunterian Museum, Glasgow
 


  Scotland Picspam, the Second

Here are some more interesting places I've seen.

Duart Castle, Mull


Dunadd Hillfort


Dunstaffnage Castle


Staffa


Iona


Inveraray Castle

The last two aren't in Scotland, but I picked them up on my way back from Newcastle to Amsterdam.

Arbeia Roman Fort


Tynemouth Priory

And they were everywhere, though usually not posing for a photo as nicely as here.

 


2.6.09
  And Off We Go

The blog will be on hiatus until around June 18th, while I explore the Antonine Wall, some Scottish castles and cathedrals, Iona and other interesting places and beautiful landscapes.

Statue of Robert the Bruce, Bannockburn / Stirling

What will be less fun is dragging around that big suitcase, but in Scotland, you'll have to pack for every weather. Including snowstorms in June. *grin*
 


29.5.09
  Another Meme, Because I'm Lazy

Found that one on Kirsten's blog: Choose ten of your characters, then answer the questions. For best results, put names in a hat and number them at random.
I picked a bunch from A Land Unconquered.

  • 1 Adgandes, Arminius' shield man and officer in the Roman army
  • 2 Publius Cornelius Lentulus - Roman patrician of the haughty sort
  • 3 Erelieva - Adgandes' sister
  • 4 Caius Horatius Veranius - Roman patrician of the nice sort
  • 5 Arminius - Prince of the Cherusci, praefect of the Cheruscian horse auxiliary
  • 6 Caius Antonius Merenda - another Roman patrician and military tribune
  • 7 Segestes - a chief of the Cherusci and Arminius' rival
  • 8 Clodia Atella - Roman 'matron' (she's still young), married to Cornelius Lentulus
  • 9 Rekahari - a Batavian
  • 10 Germanicus - adopted son of Tiberius, Roman general


  • 4 invites 3 and 8 to dinner at their house. What happens?
    Once Erelieva gets over her hartred of the Romans, she and Clodia Atella would get a long fine, and together with Horatius Veranius plot how to get Clodia out of her unhappy marriage to that jerk Cornelius Lentulus.

    9 tries to get 5 to go to a strip club. What happens?
    Arminius would be amused and make some remarks about the things the Germans should not learn from the Romans (just to make dear ol' Tacitus happy).

    You need to stay at a friend's house for a night. Who do you choose: 1 or 6?
    They're both nice enough guys, but Antonius Merenda has the better bathrooms.

    2 and 7 are making out. 10 walks in. What is their reaction?
    Lentulus and Segestes having hot man sex? Noooo, I so don't need that image. Though they are both jerks, so it fits, in a creepy way. And Germanicus would laugh his ass off.

    3 falls in love with 6. 8 is jealous. What happens?
    Erelieva falls in love with Antonius Merenda? Now, that would make for some fun plot twist. Clodia won't get jealous because she's in love with Horatius Veranius.

    4 jumps you in a dark alleyway. Who comes to your rescue: 10, 2, or 7?
    Horatius, I'm going to ask you the same thing Kirsten asked Marcus - don't they pay you well enough in the army, and you an officer? Germanicus, of course. As I said Lentulus and Segestes are both jerks. Though I have to admit Lentulus has a strong sense of Roman honour and might help someone on that situation because people who jump others in alleyways need to be brought to justice.

    1 decides to start a cooking show. Fifteen minutes later, what is happening?
    Adgandes would produce some Greek fire, or invent gun powder or some other stuff that will lead to a Big Boom.

    3 has to marry either 8, 4, or 9. Whom do they choose?
    Ok, not 8, because two girls can't marry under either Roman or Germanic right. Not Horatius Veranius because he's in love with 8 (Clodia). Remains 9, Rekahari. Could even work.

    7 kidnaps 2 and demands something from 5 for 2's release. What is it?
    Segestes kidnaps Lentulus and asks Arminius to send Segestes' daughter back who eloped against her father's will. Problem is that Arminius will just laugh at Segestes and tell him to keep Lentulus and have fun.

    Everyone gangs up on 3. Does 3 have a chance in hell?
    Well, she's a girl of the Cherusci and will fight back, but she doesn't stand a chance against some of the finest warriors of the time (Arminius, Germanicus) - her luck they won't ever do such a thing.

    Everyone is invited to 2 and 10's wedding except for 8. How do they react?
    Cornelius Lentulus and Germanicus marry? Truly a match made in heaven; those two can't stand each other. Clodia would be happy about not having been invited to the marriage of her ex. Good riddance, Lenty.

    Why is 6 afraid of 7?
    The only thing Merenda might be afraid of is having to listen to Segestes' pompous speeches in bad Latin.

    1 arrives late for 2 and 10's wedding. What happens, and why were they late?
    Adgandes had to clean up the mess he produced during his cooking show first. He won't be allowed anywhere near the grill during the party.

    5 and 9 get roaring drunk and end up at your house. What happens?
    We would have a party, those German guys know how to throw one. And when he's drunk, Arminius might answer me a few questions without thinking first.

    9 murders 2's best friend. What does 2 do to get back at them?
    Lol, that's something that could indeed happen. Our dear, arrogant friend Lentulus would go the Roman way and bring Rekahari to court. Murder of a Roman citizen (and a Cornelius only has friends who are Roman citizens) would get Rekahari crucified.

    6 and 1 are in mortal peril and only one of them can survive. Does 6 save themself or 1?
    In the book, Antonius Merenda saves a group of survivors of the Varus battle by staying behind and engaging the pursuers, so yes, Merenda has a tendency to save others.

    8 and 3 go camping. For some reason they forgot to bring along any food. What do they do?
    Erelieva could put up some snares and catch a rabbit, and she knows which herbs, vegetables and fruits can be eaten. Clodia would be lost without her, I'm afraid.

    5 is in a chariot crash and is critically injured. What does 9 do?
    Hey, Arminius doesn't crash his chariot - Segestes must have tampered with the wheels. Ok, Rekahari would find Horatius Veranius and ask him to get a Roman surgeon for Arminius (he's lacking the right sort of social contacts himself).

    I'm not tagging anyone, but I think it could be fun to do it with some random people from Edward's or Richard III's time. Or even some obscure Saxon kings. *wink*
     


    20.5.09
      Room Sharing, Roman Style

    Hi, it's me, Aelius Rufus. I know I've been rare those last months, but I was busy visiting my friends in Britannia and didn't find much time to write those blog posts for you. And I admit I spent a good deal of time in the leisure centre at Caerleon. If you had seen my living quarters in the Saalburg castellum, you'd understand.

    Interior of a room in a fort barrack (Caerleon Museum)

    Eight of us, a so called contubernium, share a room of 15 square metres plus a little anteroom with shelves for our equipmen, and a kitchenette. You see it's pretty dark and sparsely furnished - not that there'd be space for anything more than bunk beds, one table, and a few pegs in the wall. When on campaign, we also share a tent.

    (Left, oven for a contubern-ium, Caerleon Museum)

    Roman soldiers and auxiliaries don't have a central dining hall and no chefs (Asterix got that one wrong); we have to do our own cooking and can be glad if one of the chaps gets a bit of a hand for it. The ingredients, grain, beans, bacon, sometimes dried figs or other fruit and a bit fish, as well as beer and wine are distributed by the command. There is always enough to keep us fit, but it's not roasted venison in a creamy juniper berry sauce, and potato gratin (ops, that's Gabriele chiming in, I have no idea what potatoes are).

    Usually ten contubernia, a centuria that is, share a barrack in the fort. We're led by a centurion, and those guys don't live in such crowded and dark quarters. No, centurions are special and have their own house at the end of the barrack and slaves to cook for them, and us poor soldiers to clean their armour. They also get ten times the salary we get. It's a damn injustice - invented by Augustus, I've been told. He wanted a gap between the ordinary soldiers and the officers so the army wouldn't stick together and turn against him or some such. And indeed, when there were mutinies like the time Tiberius became Emperor while the legions prefered Germanicus, it was the centurions who got killed during the mess, and in the end the mutiny came to nothing and Tiberius stayed put.

    Modell of a fortress (Birdoswald Museum)
    In the lower part you can see the barracks with the attached houses for the centurions

    There's one good thing, though, and that's the fact the centurions are ranked according to the place of the centuria they lead, and half of them spend their time ogling the place of the centurion ranking above them. It's even worse in the regular legions where there are sixty of the lot and the structure is even more complicated.

    But now I must go and fix the hobnails on those damn sandals. I swear they'll use lost nails to track the ways of the Roman army one day. *

    Oh noes, Crispus and Buccio are playing at dice again. Which means the rest of us can listen to Buccio complaining that he's lost a weeks worth of pay. Again. He should know better and not play against Crispus, that man has some uncanny luck.

    Another interior shot

    * They have in fact done that in Hedemünden where those nails mark the way from the south to Hedemünden Camp and the further route north on the hills along the Visurgis valley. A smaller camp (sort of a mile castle) also was discovered along that way, and that one obviously had been attacked at some point.

    BTW, that mysterious shadow in the Birdoswald Modell photo is me shooting said photo.
     


    14.5.09
      It's Official

    I'm traveling to Scotland June 3 to June 17. One part of the journey will take place in the Edinburgh - Stirling - Falkirk area, including the Antonine Wall, and the second part in Oban and the interesting places to be found in the surroundings, like Mull and Iona and a few castles. Maybe some Pictish or Dálriatan remains as well.

    Edinburgh Castle

    I hope I'll get some better pics this time than scans of old photos.
     


    5.5.09
      Because it's Raining

    I wanted to share some pictures of a sunny evening. Follow me on a walk through the Old Botanical Garden (Alter Botanischer Garten) in Göttingen.


    The garden lies directly outside the Mediaeval town walls and has a size of 5 hectares. There are a new botanical garden and a forestry garden outside the modern town, but the old garden possesses more charm; and it provides a shortcut from the centre to the Archaeological Institute.


    I should bring my camera more often, there are plenty of pretty motives hiding in the garden and elswhere in the old part of the town.


    The Botanical Garden was founded by Albrecht von Haller (1708-1777), a Swiss born anatomist, physiologist, naturalist and poet. He was called to the chair of medicine, anatomy, botany and surgery in Göttingen in 1736. Yes, that was one chair - specialisation hadn't taken off back then.


    Von Haller held the chair until 1753 when he returned to his native Berne. The Botanical Institute still bears his name: Albrecht-von-Haller-Institut für Plfanzenwissenschaften. Besides his duties as teacher and his research, von Haller also found time to write essays about literature and history.


    More than 10.000 plant species grow in the garden and in the adjacent greenhouses (plus another 4000 in the new garden), that makes the Botanical Garden in Göttingen one of the six most important ones in Germany. Especially well assorted are the mosses and ferns, swamp and water plants, and bromelias and other plants from South- and Middle America, plus a cactus collection.


    The Botanical Garden not only serves as park, but also as research basis (fe. for biodiversity and evolution) and often preservation basis of rare and endangered plants. There are exchange programs of seeds and plants with other gardens world wide.
     


      More Botanical Garden Photos

    Here are some more shots from the Old Botanical Garden.

    The passage in the old town wall that leads into the garden.


    It's difficult to get photos without people. :)


    Last rays of the sun.
     


    28.4.09
      The Palatine Seat and Monastery of Pöhlde

    Or what is left of them, which is not much. Pöhlde is a sleepy village today, especially on a warm Easter sunday afternoon, but it once played an important role in history as one ofthe palatine seats of the German emperors. Today only a few foundations of those old buildings are left, and a 17th century church with some pretty Renaissance wood paintings showing Biblical themes. The interior has been renovated last year to protect the wood from water damage.

    Pöhlde Church, seen from the west

    Pöhlde is first mentioned as Polithi in a charte dating from 927 in which Heinrich I 'the Fowler' (919-936) gave the palatine seat, at that time more or less a country estate, to his wife Mathilde. She lived there as widow and gifted parts of the land to the Church to have a monastery built. Her son Otto I granted the monastery of Pöhlde a number of priviledges; and it developed into an important and rich one with territorial possessions and tithing rights spreading as far Frisia. The palatine seat at Pöhlde became the so called Weihnachtspfalz of the Ottonian emperors, the place where family and court would meet during Christmas.

    Pöhlde Church, interior

    Not all events having taken place in Pöhlde were peaceful. In 1002, Siegfried and Benno of Northeim and Heinrich and Udo of Katlenburg (another small town between Göttingen and the Harz) killed Ekkehard Duke of Thuringia who spent a night in Pöhlde castle. He claimed a right to the throne, and the men might have hoped to be rewarded by Heinrich II for that rather cowardly murder. They were mistaken, though, and instead lost their titles and land. It took several years until Benno of Northeim became reconciled with the king and regained his rank as count and his possessions. He was the father of Otto of Northeim whom my readers may remember from some posts.

    View from the gallery

    The Romanesque church was destroyed by a fire in 1200 and re-erected in the Gothic style. Both church and monastery were damaged during the peasant war (Bauernkrieg) in 1525, and shortly thereafter the Reformation was introduced to Pöhlde. During the Thirty Years War the church was destroyed and a new, smaller one construced on the foundations of the main nave (1668). Parts of the former aisles and the cloister have been discovered during excavations. It once must have been a pretty large church.

    Closeup of the gallery balustrade with some of the paintings

    The remains of the palatine seat had been excavated as well in 1964-70. It lies north of the church and once encompassed an area of about 1700 square metres with 12 buildings with stone foundations (there may have been more buildings without those), including a great hall which dates back to the 10th century. A passageway connected the palatine seat with the church. The foundations have been covered again to preserve them - not the best way if you ask me. Today the village priest has his garden there and I doubt the roots will do the old stones any good. It would have made more sense to add a bit mortar to keep the remaining walls from tumbling further and display them to the public. But that's more expensive. ;)

    The chuch seen from the east - the side where the cloister had been

    Below the remains of the palatine seat older finds have been made, mostly dating to the younger Iron Age and Imperial Rome which prove a long tradition of settlements in that spot. The Roman items sound intriguing in the light of the new finds in the area - were they more than just a few traded goods?

    This is for Mirella: There is no plan of the excavated palatine buildings in the guidebook (which is but a leaflet anyway), but it confirms the finds of Tilleda: Those 10th century palatine seats were divided into several buildings - mostly timber or wattle and daub on stone foundations, and had a great hall; the whole area was surrounded by earthen walls and palisades. You better give Mathilde a warm, hooded outdoor cloak if she is to run the place. *grin*
     


    23.4.09
      What Germans Fought at Kalefeld?

    A commenter on my latest Kalefeld post wondered if Maximinus Thrax fought Alamanni, as the sources state, when the campaign led him so far north. My first reaction was to assume it would have been Saxons - like the Alamanni, a larger group of Germans that assimilated smaller tribes. The Romans might not have known the difference, or cared much about it (big, bad Germans are big, bad Germans). But it turns out things are more complicated.

    Saxons are indeed mentioned at the time in question, but only as a coast-dwelling tribe that already then enjoyed its favourite pastime: piracy and visiting England.

    What makes matters complicated is the fact that sometimes German tribes kept their name despite changing location and/or combination of its members, while in other cases tribes that didn't change in itself yet changed their name (1) The Alamanni later would become one of the major Germanic tribes. (like the Franks, Saxons and others) with its settlements in southern Germany, but at the time of the so-called Alamannic wars they were still a more loose and flexible conglomeration of Germanic people - the 'all men', men from everywhere.

    Tribes fought each other, or formed alliances, and sometimes groups of young men broke off from a tribe and looked for more booty and riches with another chieftain. It was a shfiting and slow process until the larger groups were fully formed.

    The Cherusci who settled in the Harz/Leine/Weser area during Arminius' time had decreased in size and importance and at some point been swallowed by another tribe, the Chauci; while the Chatti who settled south of them remained a large and important tribe.

    Limes fort Osterburken, foundations of a watchtower.
    The fortress had been attacked during the Alamannic insurrection in 233 AD

    According to Prof. G.A. Lehmann, Göttingen (2), it is well possible, that tribes from the Harz/Leine area participated in the attacks on the Limes of 213 and again 233 AD, and thus would have been part of the foederatio of the Alamanni. When Maximinus Thrax led his punitive campaign assumedly as far as the Leine valley and the foothills of the Harz, he fought Alamanni, 'all men', indeed.

    Though we don't know what the northern people called himself at that point. - did they continue to see themselves as part of a larger group upon return home, or did they retake their old tribal indentiy (as perhaps Chauci), I wonder?

    (1) Bruno Bleckmann, Die Germanen, München 2009
    (2) I had a nice chat with him after a lecture.
     


    20.4.09
      Kalefeld Coins

    New diggings at the Kalefeld battlefield discovered some coins, Roman denarii, the standard pay of the legionaries. One dates from the time of Caracalla (reigned 211-217), three to the time of Elagabalus (218-222) and two to the reign of Severus Alexander (222-235). The article (in German) can be found here.

    This makes a connection of the battlefield with the campaign of Maximinus Thrax a possible theory, since Maximinus led the mutiny during which Severus Alexander was killed, and then was hailed Emperor by the soldiers. Those coins could have been in use in his army.

    The battlefield also turned out to be larger than previously assumed: 2 km in length and several hundred metres wide. Looks like it has been more than a skirmish, after all.

    Info kudos to Adrian Murdoch who obviously has a Google alert for all things Roman. :)
     


    14.4.09
      Spring at the Rhume Spring

    The Rhume river, a tributary of the Leine that flows through Göttingen, has an unusual source: a karstic spring south of the Harz mountains. The stone there is gypsum karst, and the water that seeps into the ground from the Harz rivers Sieber and Oder flows under the ground until it comes to light again in the funnel shaped well of the Rhume.


    Colour tracking done in 1930 showed the connections between the Harz rivers and the Rhume. The karstic stone is rich in hollow spaces where water can find its way, and the Harz rivers bring with them a lot of rain that leads to the high output of the Rhume spring.


    2000l litres of water per second press up from the ground, most of it into the 500 square metre main bassin, but there a minor springs as well. The water has a temperature of 8-9°Celsius all year round and drinking water quality. The main funnel is about 8 metres deep.


    In 1999 the well was cleaned after a severe storm had thrown some trees into it. Among the finds was not ony modern trash (some people deserve to be drowned for their manners) but also relics from prehistoric and Germanic times. The Rhume spring must have been a holy place once.


    This is no surprise considering the unusual properties of the spring, including its turquoise colour that can be seen in the pic below which I took from a nearby hillock. The bassin is surrounded by trees and in former times probably by a larger wood.


    The surroundings are a bit on the swampy side, esp. now with the water levels still high from winter. The Romans would not have liked the place. *grin*

    The photo below shows the sping in summer.


    I took that one a few years ago; you can see how rich the foliage will soon become.

    There is a path and a bridge so one can walk around the main bassin and the side wells. The pictures above show the spring from different angles.
     


    11.4.09
      Happy Easter

    I wish everyone a Happy Easter.

    May there be lots of eggs, preferaby book sized ones, and love. (I got the 3 volume illustrated edition of Lord of the Rings since my old single volume is falling apart).


    The spring photos were taken this afternoon. Those last warm and sunny days really brought the green leaves out.


    The weather is going to be fine tomorrow as well, so the travel saison will officially start with a visit to the aforementioned Pöhlde.
     


    8.4.09
      Edinburgh, Antonine Wall, and Then Where to Go?

    It looks like a trip to Scotland is a possibility this year (preferably late May/early June). I know I want to visit Edinburgh again and then explore the Antonine Wall / Falkirk area. After all, Falkirk Councillor Adrian Mahoney promised me the wall would be tidy, so I should have a look. *grin*

    But I'm not sure what else to see. Of course, there are places I would love to revisit, but it won't make much sense to do a Highlights of 1998 Memory tour. I do know I want to go further north and/or west, into the Grampians or Argyll. What I have seen on my past round trip are Edinburgh, the Border abbeys Melrose, Dryburgh and Jedburgh, Dunfermline Abbey, the castles of Craigmillar, Tantallon, Aberdour, Dirleton and Stirling, Bannockburn, Fort William with Glen Coe and Ben Nevis, Eilean Donan Castle, part of Skye (with Armadale), Inverness, Urquhart and Cawdor Castle, Culloden.

    I may put Stirling Castle on my list again since part of it was closed due to renovation, but for the rest I'm rather overwhelmed with possibilites and the problems to reach places by public traffic. So I'm looking for some suggestions, preferably not found on the tourist sites, or places I should see despite the tourists. My readers will know what I'm looking for: Roman remains, Mediaeval castles and cathedrals (ruins or still intact), and nature. Any of my Scottish friends got some ideas?
     


    2.4.09
      Spring Has Finally Arrived

    And so have the birch pollen. Achee.

    But a warm breeze and sunshine are an improvement to blizzards, allergies nonwithstanding.


    Nature is really catching up, though the pics are from May last year; there is not that much green yet.


    Photos taken in the Kiesteiche park only a few minutes walk from my flat.
     


    28.3.09
      More Anglo-German Marriage Connections and Geneaology Fun

    When the German king Heinrich the Fowler looked for a suitable bride for his son Otto (912-979), he contacted King Æthelstan of Wessex who sent two of his half sisters on a visit. Otto, the future Duke of Saxony and King of East Francia would make a fitting brother-in-law for the king of Wessex, and both Æthelstan and Otto shared an enemy in the Danes who had that habit of making unannounced visits to the coasts of England and northern Germany. For the young House of the Liudolfings on the other hand, a daughter of Eduard the Elder and granddaughter of Alfred the Great (I leave it to Carla to sort out that geneaology) would support their claim to the kingship. After all, the West Francian Carolingians still presented some competition.

    (Left: Magdeburg Cathedral, west towers)

    Otto decided for Editha (Eadgytha) who was said to have been of royal bearing and sweet disposition (1). The marriage took place in 930 and Editha got the income from the bishopric of Magdeburg as morning gift. Her tomb may have been discovered in the cathedral (final exami-nations of the finds have yet to be done) in November 2008..

    Heinrich the Fowler died in 936 and Otto I became King of East Francia. But it took until 962 before he was crowned Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire as well.

    The daughter of Otto and Editha, Liutgard (931-953), married Konrad of Lotharingia, the ancestor of the Salian Royal House - he was the great grandfather of Konrad II, the first Salian Emperor (1027). Konrad II in his turn was grandfather of Heinrich IV (1050-1106), the one who got into so much trouble with the pope in Rome (see my list of German Emperors).

    Heinrich IV's daughter Agnes of Waiblingen married Friedrich I Duke of Swabia (of the House Staufen), their son Friedrich II of Swabia married Judith, daughter of Heinrich the Black Duke of Bavaria (1075-1126, of the Welfen family) (2). Their son would later be known as Emperor Friedrich Barbarossa (1122-1190).

    Heinrich the Black's son Heinrich the Proud married Gertrud, daughter of the Emperor Lothar of Süpplingenburg,; their son was Heinrich the Lion Duke of Saxony and Bavaria (1129-1195). That makes Heinrich the Lion and Friedrich Barbarossa cousins, and members of the two most powerful families in Germany. Dysfunctional doesn't begin to describe the ensuing mess.

    Heinrich IV's son Heinrich V, a charming young man who took his own father capitive in order to get the throne, was was married to Maud (Mathilda), daughter of Henry I of England who after his death married Geoffrey of Anjou. She was the grandmother of Richard Lionheart and Mathilde, the wife of Henry the Lion.

    The Welfen lost the power struggle with the Staufen after Otto IV died, but the family exists until today. And Great Britian did get its Welfen king when Georg Ludwig of the House Braunschweig-Lüneburg, Prince Elector of the Holy Roman Empire and King of Hannover ascended the English throne as George I in 1714.


    (Left: King Eduard the Elder of Wessex, father of many girls and a few boys. Wikipedia common license)

    (1) Editha's sister Eadgifu married King Charles III (879-929) of West Francia who got into so much trouble with the nobles of his realm that he ended his days in the dungeons of one of them. Eadgifu and her son Louis fled to England. He would return to France and become king under the name of Louis IV d'Outre-Mer in 936, with the help of Duke Hugo 'the Great' who was married to another of Eduard's daughters, Edhilda. Louis in turn married Otto's sister Gerberga. She's one of the women who deserves a biography of her own.

    (2) Heinrich the Black was the son of Welf IV - the one who had divorced Ethelind of Northeim when he supported Emperor Heinrich IV against Otto of Northeim - and Judith of Flanders (daughter of Balduin IV), the widow of Tostig Godwinson Earl of Northumbria who fell at Stamford Bridge in 1066.
     


    26.3.09
      Can I Haz Spring, Plz (Plus More Castle Pics)

    I'm really tired of the weather. It's just a bit above freezing, with lots of rain and storm. Yesterday we even had a blizzard, but contrary to the three feet of white fun Constance got, it were only a few centimetres here, and it has already melted. The ground is too warm - and much to soaked - for snow to remain. The mountains are a different matter, though, and once that lot melts there will be floods.

    To distract Constance from the snow shoveling and building her own, albeit temporary, defenses, here are some more pics of old castle walls. I know how much she loves to get her siege engines up against them.

    Plesse Castle, outer curtain wall

    The Plesse is the castle close to Göttingen I visited in 2007. It has only been of local importance during history, but it's a pretty place, and a typical representant of the many hilltop castles this country has. Mediaeval German lords couldn't see a hill without wanting to get a castle up there, it seems. Some more important noble families collected them.

    Oops, looks like someone has been there before Constance.

    Remains of the curtain wall with a breach near the gate

    Well, not really, the enemy who did that was time and nature with its storms and rain. The place has been rediscovered in the 19th century when the remains of old castles were considered picturesque and romantic. Which fortunately led to attempts at preserving the ruins, and some reconstructions of varying historical correctness.

    I really hope for some spring flower photos in near future, but the weather forecast doesn't look very promising. The rain is only going to get a bit warmer.
     


    23.3.09
      An Unfortunate Emperor

    Here is the first of the promised Otto IV posts (see this post) in honour of the 800 year anniversary of his coronation as Holy German Emperor.

    Some pictures of the Harzburg where Otto died in 1218 will illustrate this post - I took them last fall. The Harzburg is a hilltop castle, one of the few that could have competed with the Norman whoppers once. Today not much is left, but a few featuers have been reconstruced to give an impression of its former splendour.

    The castle had been built by Heinrich IV, was destroyed during his wars with the Saxon nobles and rebuilt in the 12th century when it was an Imperial possession. Later it fell to the Welfen family.

    Harzburg, outer curtain wall

    Otto was born in 1175 or 1176 as third son of Henrich the Lion (1133 ? - 1195) and Mathilda, daughter of Henry II of England and Eleanor of Aquitaine. When the Emperor Friedrich Barbarossa exiled Heinrich in 1183, the family spent the time in exile with their English relations, first in Normandy and later in England. Little is known how life among the most dysfunctional family in Europe turned out for them, except that Richard Lionheart took an interest in his nephew Otto and made sure the boy got the best education his time could offer. Otto not only learned the knightly and military ways, but also benefitted from the Plantagenet's interest in literature, arts and music.

    Remains of the lower gate of the Ostburg (Eastern Castle)

    When Heinrich the Lion got pardoned and his allodial possessions of Braunschweig and Lüneburg were returned to him in 1185, the family went back to Germany except for Otto who stayed at the English court. Richard, crowned king in 1189 and childless, wanted to make Otto his heir, but his attempts to create him Earl of York came to nothing as did a planned marriage with the Scottish royal heiress Margaretha. Imagine Otto had become king after Richard - in addition to the many Henrys/Heinrichs we'd have to deal with a second bunch of Ottos as well. *grin*

    In the end Richard had to be content to give him the Poitou as fief and make Otto Duke of Aquitaine in 1196. Not a bad position for a third son - his oldest brother, another Heinrich, would inherit the Welfen possessions.

    View from Otto's Tower across the remains of the Ostburg

    I have yet to figure out where Otto was during Richard's captivity in Germany 1192-94 - I really hope the anniversary will yield a new Otto IV biography since the only modern one dates from 1990 and is out of print.

    Heinrich the Lion and his son Heinrich rebelled against the man who held Richard prisoner: Emperor Heinrich VI, son of Friedrich Barbarossa, but I'm not sure whether Otto was with them or stayed in his Aquitanian dukedom, or even in England during those years. What we do know is that Otto fought at Richard's side in the war against the King of France after Richard's release from captivity.

    View towards the partly reconstruced Otto's Tower in the Westburg (Western Castle)

    Emperor Heinrich died in 1197. With Richard's support, Otto got himself elected King of Germany, but so did Barbarossa's youngest son, Philipp of Swabia. Philipp had the regal insignia, but the coronation was done by the wrong bishop in the wrong place. Otto had the right bishop and place, but no insignia.

    The two men fought for power for the next ten years. Otto's brother Heinrich took example from the dysfunctional Plantagenet relations and changed sides a few times.

    But when Philipp finally got the upper hand on the battlefield and, to make peace with Otto, offered Otto his daughter Beatrix in marriage, he was assassinated by the Count of Wittelsbach. The count had been betrothed to Beatrix, so jealousy has been assumed as motiv - though, considering the fact the girl was only ten, it doesn't seem very probable. Offended honour and/or a larger conspiracy is a more likely reason, imho.

    Bridge spanning the dike between Ostburg and Westburg

    After Philipp's death, Otto IV became King of Germany, and in 1209 was anointed Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire by pope Innocenz III.

    But trouble began anew when Otto turned his attention towards Sicily where Barbarossa's grandson Friedrich II - later named stupor mundi - had just reached adulthood and faced an opposition of Sicialian nobles against the German House of Staufen. Pope Innocenz didn't want to see Sicily and Germany united in one hand again and excommunicated Otto. Why he then allowed Friedrich to claim the German kingship is beyond me, because a united kingdom of Germany and Sicily was exactly what he got that way.

    Friedrich received the support of most of the nobles and the free towns in southern Germany, the traditional Staufen territory. Otto's excommunication may also have played a role. Thus Friedrich was crowned King of Germany in 1212, and we're back to the situation of 1198-1209, only with Otto IV still being emperor.

    Westburg, curtain wall

    Luck began to abandon Otto. His wife Beatrix died only a few weeks after their wedding in 1212, thus ending his family ties to the House Staufen and any hope of an heir who might have united both lines.

    In 1214, the armies of the allied of kings Philippe August of France and Friedrich II fought against the hosts of the English king John Lackland (aka John Battle Shirker, because he was absent) and Otto IV, and defeated them at the battle of Bouvines. The outcome weakened John's position towards the barons and he had to accept the Magna Charta, but the situation was worse for Otto. In the years to follow his last allies abandoned him and he died, politically isolated, on the Harzburg in 1218, probably from a digestive disease. His remains are buried in St.Blasius Cathedral in Braunschweig.

    After the short, unhappy Welfen intermezzo, the Staufen king Friedrich II became Emperor.
     


    22.3.09
      A Year of Anniversaries

    2009 is a year of anniversaries in Germany. The most important one is the Varus Battle / Battle of the Teutoburg Forest which took place 2000 years ago, an event that already gets a lot of media coverage, including a TV 'documentary' that turned Arminius into the German Braveheart. The only positive aspect of that one was that I couldn't detect any stirrups. ;-)

    (To the left: The museum building at Kalkriese, modeled after a Roman watchtower. It wouldn't have gotten any architecture prize from me, though.)

    There will be exhibitions in Kalkriese (which I've seen in 2006), Detmold (concentrating on the Arminius myth during history) and in Haltern, one of the Roman forts in Germania. I'd love to get a chance and visit that one.

    I will continue my series about the Romans in Germany after I've read up on the new publications. I also need to get a better grip on Varus' character (esp. concerning A Land Unconquered) - it's too easy to make him Teh Evul Roman where he probably just failed to understand that the methods which worked in Syria didn't work in Germania.

    But there is another anniversary which centers more around Braunschweig: 800 years ago Otto IV, son of Heinrich 'the Lion' of Saxony and Mathilde of England, was crowned Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. He was the one and only emperor of the House Welfen, and for a few years Braunschweig became urbs regia, the imperial seat in Germany. Of course, Braunschweig will celebrate this anniversary with an exhibition in late summer and a number of other events. Since Braunschweig is only a bit more than an hours drive from Göttingen, you can expect some Otto IV-related posts and photos in 2009.

    The Lion of Braunschweig
    (Copyright: Official website of the town)

    The statue stands in front of Dankwarderode Castle. I have analog photos of that one and the cathedral, but I'll rather get some new, digital ones for the blog instead of scanning the old pics.
     


    16.3.09
      There's a Castle Hiding in the Woods

    After half an hours walk up a mountain, we got the first glimpse through the autumn foliage. Look to the right for that square, off-white building.


    Walls lit by the morning sun, appearing whitewashed despite being unadorned sandstone. But they would have been painted white, maybe with decorative elements in other colours, in the Middle Ages.


    The trees made a sharp relief in front of the bright wall. A picturesque view, but not a historical one; no Burgvogt - chatellain - would have allowed trees to grow so close to the walls.


    Another bend, another view. One of the palas towers, the keep you would call it, rising behind the curtain walls.


    The dark side upposite the sun, showing one of the outhouses that was integrated into the wall.


    It's the Weidelsburg, a 12th century castle in northern Hessia I mentioned before. It was one of our autumn day trips that rendered a nice booty in photos.


    Today the ruins of the castle and nature trying to take it back form a synthesis that has a beauty of its own. Like the old folk song says: Long fallen are the walls / And the wind blows through the halls / Clouds race over ruins fair.
     
    Miscellaneous musings of a Historical Fiction and Fantasy author: Roman and Mediaeval history, travels, writing, some book reviews and opera posts. And lots of photos.

    All texts (except comments by guests) and photos (if no other copyright is noted) on this blog are copyright of Gabriele Campbell.

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    Name: Gabriele Campbell
    Location: Germany

    I'm a writer of Historical Fiction and Fantasy living in Germany; literary science academic, historian, interested in archaeology, avid reader, opera enthusiast, rider, traveller with a liking for foreign languages, and photographer.

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