My Travel and History Blog, Focussing mostly on Roman and Mediaeval Times
2 Jan 2025
Photo Parade 2024
I’ve decided to participate in the annual Photo Parade (Fotoparade) on Michael’s blog Erkunde die Welt (Discover the World) again. My post from last year’s parade can be found here.
Michael offers several key words every year, so I’ve tried to find some photos for the categories 2024 from the collection of my tour to Latvia, Estonia and Helsinki (plus Kiel again upon return) in spring.
Category: Architecture (Architektur)
Open Air Museum Kiel-Molfsee, modern entrance building
The State Museum for Ethnology, presenting historical houses relocated from the county of Schleswig Holstein, in Molfesee near Kiel has recently openend its new entrance and exhibition area. It consists of two houses with a cladding of corten steel which imitate the form of historical houses and barns with their high roofs (which are usually thatched with reed).
The Vanšu Bridge in Riga
I love how the sun makes the cables sparkle. The Vanšu Bridge – then named Gorky Bridge – was built in 1981, during the Sovjet occupation. It is 595 metres long, with a central pylon of 109 metres height, and spans the Daugava river, connecting the city of Riga with Ķīpsala island. The word vanšu refers to the suspension cables holding the bridge.
The tower to the left is the Swedbank Main Office in Riga. It is nicknamed Saules Akmens (Sun Rock), was completed in 2004, and is 122 metres high.
Category: Town (Stadt)
Helsinki, seen from the sea
It is always nice if you can get a pretty view of a town from either above or from some distance that shows a pretty side (and not the often less attractive suburbs). This one was not taken on the big ferry from Tallinn, but from a smaller boat during a tour in the archipelago landscape of Helsinki.
Tartu (Estonia), the Town Hall Square
Tartu in Estonia is Tallinn’s underrated little sister. It is less tourist-y, but a lively place due to the many students. I picked the Raekoja Plats (Town Hall Square), the historical centre of the town, though the buildings framing the place today are mostly of the classicist style. The trapezoid shaped square had been the main trading area, located between the town hall and the river Emajõgi. Today, it is a meeting point, framed by several restaurants, and a lovely spot on a warm and still bright evening in late spring.
House of the Blackheads in Riga
An iconic view in Riga: the House of the Blackheads. The building dates back to 1334, then serving as warehouse and meeting place for merchants. The Brotherhood of Blackheads Guild – a guild for unmarried merchants – used the house as a guest house and inn since the mid-15th century. Some of the decorations of the facade date to the 17th respective 19th century.
The building was damaged by bombs in 1941, and the Sovjet occupants knocked down the remains in 1948. The house was rebuilt according to old plans, photos and studies by the Riga Polytechnic Institute 1996-2000, so Riga has its landmark back in full splendour.
Detail from Riga’s old town
A typical feature of Medieval towns with their historical centres still intact are small lanes, passageways and little yards that make for a charming maze to walk.
Tallinn: the iconic view from the Toompea Hill to the old town
One typical motive featuring Tallinn is the view from the Toompea Hill where the castle and cathedral are located, over the old town with the town wall towers and further to the harbour and sea. Of couse, I took some shots from that balcony like a good little tourist. *grin*
Tallinn, the town walls
Another feature typical for old towns are town walls. They are not always preserved – with the development of advanced siege techniques and the growth of the cities beyond their Medieval borders, the walls were frequently dismantled. But some towns – like Tallinn – kept at least part of the walls which nowadays are maintained as historical attractions.
This is the oldest section of the Tallinn town wall, built in the 13th century. It became one of the strongest town defenses in Northern Europe during the following centuries. Today, about two kilometres of the wall still exist, as well as 26 towers and two gates.
Tallinn, St. Olaf’s Church
Churches are also an intergral part of towns. They are also often difficult to photograph, because the houses cluster around and you can’t get a wide angle view. What you can get is photos of parts of the churches, or put your head back and catch a tower. This photo might also fit the next category.
St.Olaf’s Church dates back to the 12th century, but was rebuilt in the 14th century, and again in 1649-51, after a fire had destroyed the church and its landmark tower – the tower served as signal for ships during several centuries.
Category: Above / Up / At the Top (oben)
Helsinki, the copper ceiling of the Rock Church
The “Rock Church” (Temppeliaukion Kirkko - Church at the Temple Square) in Helsinki was built in the 1960ies by the architects Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen, though the plans date back to the 1930ies. It was built into a granite rock and has a copper roof with 180 skylight windows; the cupola is 13 metres high. The granite walls inside were left roughly hewn in their natural hues which, together with the copper plate ceiling, gives the round hall an unusual atmosphere. To get an impression of the interior, click here.
Helsinki, dome of the Uspenski Cathedral
The Uspenski Cathedral ist the largest Orthodox cathedral in Finland. It is dedicated to the Dormition (= the death and ascension) of the Virgin Mary. The idea for the construction of an orthodox church dates back to 1812, shortly after Finland was made a Grand Duchy under Russian supremacy during the reign of Tsar Alexander I. But it would take until the 1860ies for it to be actually built.
The interior is very rich with lots of gold, colour, and icones in a neo-Byzantine style. I would have liked to stand directly under the main cupola for this photo, but parts of the interior are cordoned off, so visitors have to follow a path.
Category: Mountains (Bergwelt)
I changed that one to Landscape because the Baltic States aren’t exactly a mountain area. But I got plenty of photos of the pretty archipelago landscape outside Helsinki, therefore I’ll share some of those.
Helsinki archipelago
There isn’t much to comment. *grin* Blue sea, blue sky – a nice day on Suomenlinna island. There is a large fortress on the island, but the fortifications and buildings are spread out and partly hidden, so you can easily catch views without any of them.
Seurasaari island (Helsinki)
Seurasaari island can be reached by a bridge. The shore vegetation is more lake-like and looked pretty in the afternoon sun. The island houses an open air museum with old rural houses from Finland.
Latvia, Gauja river valley
The Gauja National Park in Latvia is the one area I visited that may qualify as ‘mountains’. The park was founded in 1973. It encompasses about 90,000 hectares of hilly land around the Gauja river valley and offers a number of hiking routes.
Gauja National Park, view from Sigulda Castle
Geologically, the rocks in the park are mostly 350-370 million year old sandstone formations in shades of red, orange and yellow, including a number of cliffs and caves. Most of the park is covered by deciduous forst.
Category: Black and White (Schwarz/Weiss)
I don’t do black and white photography any longer (I did it a lot back when we still had to use film rolls), but some photos come out nicely when using the feature in some photo editing program.
Loading cranes in Klaipeda harbour (Lithuania)
My way to the Baltic States is the ferry from Kiel to Klaipeda – I consider travelling that way very relaxing, though of course, it takes more time than a flight to Riga or Vilnius. I took some photos of the harbour from the upper deck of the ferry in the evening before it set ‘sail’.
The Snail Tower in Tartu
The Tigutorn is an appartment building in Tartu, designed by Estonian architects Vilen Künnapu and Ain Padrik. It was openend in 2008 and offers flats, offices and a parking house on a space of 23 floors. The tower is designed as a sprial with irregular windows. It surely looks less boring than your average multi-appartment house.
There was a thunderstorm coming in, and the tower looked interesting against the darkening sky even in colour, but the contrasts got stronger in black and white.
Category: Surprise (Überraschung)
That category was a bit difficult since I planned the tour ahead and knew what I wanted to see. But the unusually warm and sunny weather was a pleasant surprise. It’s not every year there will be up to 28°C in late May in Helskini or Tallinn, and the evenings still warm as well.
Beach outside Helsinki in May 2024
I didn’t think about bringing a bathing suit, or I might have joined those brave Fins down there. I prefer colder water for swimming anyway.
Impression from the Open Air Musem Kiel-Molfsee
Another place that could qualify as ‘surprise’ was my spontaneous visit to the Open Air Museum in Kiel-Molfsee. I had been there as a child when our family regularly spent the summer holidays at the Baltic Sea in the 1970ies, and found it quite fascinating. But I didn’t remember how beautiful the place was. Also, they have meanwhile added more houses that could be safely relocated. I spent some pleasant hours walking around and peeking into the houses.
Category of my Own: Castles (Burgen)
I picked ‘Castles’ again, because I got a really nice booty of those this time.
Turku Castle (Finland), inner bailey
The oldest parts of the castle in Turku date back to the late 13th century. At that time the castle was the seat of the Swedish administration of the provice Eastland, as Finland was called. During the following years, the castle was expanded and the fortifications strengthened. The castle lost its status as administrative centre in the 17th century, but was never destroyed or badly damaged.
Turaida Castle (Latvia), the keep
I like how the red bricks come out against those clouds. Turaida Castle was commissioned by Albert of Buxthoeveden, Archbishop of Riga, in 1214, and built by the Livonian Sword Brothers. The masons of the order used bricks like in many churchesand castles in northern Germany and the Baltic states. The defensive systems of the castle were strengthened in later centuries. Turaida Castle was the seat of the bailiff of the archbishop of Riga until the secularization of the archbishopric in 1566. It lost its military importance, and after a fire in 1776, the castle became a ruin.
Cēsis Castle (Latvia), the main gate with bridge
Cēsis Castle is one of the most important castles in Latvia. It, too, was constructed by the Livonian Sword Brothers, but the original castle had been thoroughly altered when the Sword Brothers merged with the Teutonic Knights in 1236. The latter set up Cēsis according to the castellum pattern they used for their castles.
Cēsis Castle, double set of curtain walls
Cēsis Castle was damaged during the Livonian War (1577) by a Russian army under Ivan the Terrible. Later, the castle came to Sweden and was the property of the High Chancellor Axel Oxenstierna (1583-1654). The castle was damaged during the Northern War (1700-1720) and remained a ruin.
Haapsalu Castle (Estonia), curtain walls
Haapsalu Castle was the seat of the bishop of Ösel-Wiek since the 14th century. When the bishopric was founded in 1228, the bishops at first worked together with the Order of the Sword Brothers, but after some time, the rivalry between both powers increased, and the bishops decided to have some strong castle of their own. Haapsalu Castle was altered during the following three centuries, adapting to the developments of arms and warfare. The castle grounds cover about 30,000 square metres, enclosed by walls at least a metre thick (in some places up to 1.80 metres) and ten metres high.
More information about my tour 2024 can be found here and here.
¶ January 02, 2025 3 comments
I’ve decided to participate in the annual Photo Parade (Fotoparade) on Michael’s blog Erkunde die Welt (Discover the World) again. My post from last year’s parade can be found here.
Michael offers several key words every year, so I’ve tried to find some photos for the categories 2024 from the collection of my tour to Latvia, Estonia and Helsinki (plus Kiel again upon return) in spring.
Category: Architecture (Architektur)
The State Museum for Ethnology, presenting historical houses relocated from the county of Schleswig Holstein, in Molfesee near Kiel has recently openend its new entrance and exhibition area. It consists of two houses with a cladding of corten steel which imitate the form of historical houses and barns with their high roofs (which are usually thatched with reed).
I love how the sun makes the cables sparkle. The Vanšu Bridge – then named Gorky Bridge – was built in 1981, during the Sovjet occupation. It is 595 metres long, with a central pylon of 109 metres height, and spans the Daugava river, connecting the city of Riga with Ķīpsala island. The word vanšu refers to the suspension cables holding the bridge.
The tower to the left is the Swedbank Main Office in Riga. It is nicknamed Saules Akmens (Sun Rock), was completed in 2004, and is 122 metres high.
Category: Town (Stadt)
It is always nice if you can get a pretty view of a town from either above or from some distance that shows a pretty side (and not the often less attractive suburbs). This one was not taken on the big ferry from Tallinn, but from a smaller boat during a tour in the archipelago landscape of Helsinki.
Tartu in Estonia is Tallinn’s underrated little sister. It is less tourist-y, but a lively place due to the many students. I picked the Raekoja Plats (Town Hall Square), the historical centre of the town, though the buildings framing the place today are mostly of the classicist style. The trapezoid shaped square had been the main trading area, located between the town hall and the river Emajõgi. Today, it is a meeting point, framed by several restaurants, and a lovely spot on a warm and still bright evening in late spring.
An iconic view in Riga: the House of the Blackheads. The building dates back to 1334, then serving as warehouse and meeting place for merchants. The Brotherhood of Blackheads Guild – a guild for unmarried merchants – used the house as a guest house and inn since the mid-15th century. Some of the decorations of the facade date to the 17th respective 19th century.
The building was damaged by bombs in 1941, and the Sovjet occupants knocked down the remains in 1948. The house was rebuilt according to old plans, photos and studies by the Riga Polytechnic Institute 1996-2000, so Riga has its landmark back in full splendour.
A typical feature of Medieval towns with their historical centres still intact are small lanes, passageways and little yards that make for a charming maze to walk.
One typical motive featuring Tallinn is the view from the Toompea Hill where the castle and cathedral are located, over the old town with the town wall towers and further to the harbour and sea. Of couse, I took some shots from that balcony like a good little tourist. *grin*
Another feature typical for old towns are town walls. They are not always preserved – with the development of advanced siege techniques and the growth of the cities beyond their Medieval borders, the walls were frequently dismantled. But some towns – like Tallinn – kept at least part of the walls which nowadays are maintained as historical attractions.
This is the oldest section of the Tallinn town wall, built in the 13th century. It became one of the strongest town defenses in Northern Europe during the following centuries. Today, about two kilometres of the wall still exist, as well as 26 towers and two gates.
Churches are also an intergral part of towns. They are also often difficult to photograph, because the houses cluster around and you can’t get a wide angle view. What you can get is photos of parts of the churches, or put your head back and catch a tower. This photo might also fit the next category.
St.Olaf’s Church dates back to the 12th century, but was rebuilt in the 14th century, and again in 1649-51, after a fire had destroyed the church and its landmark tower – the tower served as signal for ships during several centuries.
Category: Above / Up / At the Top (oben)
The “Rock Church” (Temppeliaukion Kirkko - Church at the Temple Square) in Helsinki was built in the 1960ies by the architects Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen, though the plans date back to the 1930ies. It was built into a granite rock and has a copper roof with 180 skylight windows; the cupola is 13 metres high. The granite walls inside were left roughly hewn in their natural hues which, together with the copper plate ceiling, gives the round hall an unusual atmosphere. To get an impression of the interior, click here.
The Uspenski Cathedral ist the largest Orthodox cathedral in Finland. It is dedicated to the Dormition (= the death and ascension) of the Virgin Mary. The idea for the construction of an orthodox church dates back to 1812, shortly after Finland was made a Grand Duchy under Russian supremacy during the reign of Tsar Alexander I. But it would take until the 1860ies for it to be actually built.
The interior is very rich with lots of gold, colour, and icones in a neo-Byzantine style. I would have liked to stand directly under the main cupola for this photo, but parts of the interior are cordoned off, so visitors have to follow a path.
Category: Mountains (Bergwelt)
I changed that one to Landscape because the Baltic States aren’t exactly a mountain area. But I got plenty of photos of the pretty archipelago landscape outside Helsinki, therefore I’ll share some of those.
There isn’t much to comment. *grin* Blue sea, blue sky – a nice day on Suomenlinna island. There is a large fortress on the island, but the fortifications and buildings are spread out and partly hidden, so you can easily catch views without any of them.
Seurasaari island can be reached by a bridge. The shore vegetation is more lake-like and looked pretty in the afternoon sun. The island houses an open air museum with old rural houses from Finland.
The Gauja National Park in Latvia is the one area I visited that may qualify as ‘mountains’. The park was founded in 1973. It encompasses about 90,000 hectares of hilly land around the Gauja river valley and offers a number of hiking routes.
Geologically, the rocks in the park are mostly 350-370 million year old sandstone formations in shades of red, orange and yellow, including a number of cliffs and caves. Most of the park is covered by deciduous forst.
Category: Black and White (Schwarz/Weiss)
I don’t do black and white photography any longer (I did it a lot back when we still had to use film rolls), but some photos come out nicely when using the feature in some photo editing program.
My way to the Baltic States is the ferry from Kiel to Klaipeda – I consider travelling that way very relaxing, though of course, it takes more time than a flight to Riga or Vilnius. I took some photos of the harbour from the upper deck of the ferry in the evening before it set ‘sail’.
The Tigutorn is an appartment building in Tartu, designed by Estonian architects Vilen Künnapu and Ain Padrik. It was openend in 2008 and offers flats, offices and a parking house on a space of 23 floors. The tower is designed as a sprial with irregular windows. It surely looks less boring than your average multi-appartment house.
There was a thunderstorm coming in, and the tower looked interesting against the darkening sky even in colour, but the contrasts got stronger in black and white.
Category: Surprise (Überraschung)
That category was a bit difficult since I planned the tour ahead and knew what I wanted to see. But the unusually warm and sunny weather was a pleasant surprise. It’s not every year there will be up to 28°C in late May in Helskini or Tallinn, and the evenings still warm as well.
I didn’t think about bringing a bathing suit, or I might have joined those brave Fins down there. I prefer colder water for swimming anyway.
Another place that could qualify as ‘surprise’ was my spontaneous visit to the Open Air Museum in Kiel-Molfsee. I had been there as a child when our family regularly spent the summer holidays at the Baltic Sea in the 1970ies, and found it quite fascinating. But I didn’t remember how beautiful the place was. Also, they have meanwhile added more houses that could be safely relocated. I spent some pleasant hours walking around and peeking into the houses.
Category of my Own: Castles (Burgen)
I picked ‘Castles’ again, because I got a really nice booty of those this time.
The oldest parts of the castle in Turku date back to the late 13th century. At that time the castle was the seat of the Swedish administration of the provice Eastland, as Finland was called. During the following years, the castle was expanded and the fortifications strengthened. The castle lost its status as administrative centre in the 17th century, but was never destroyed or badly damaged.
I like how the red bricks come out against those clouds. Turaida Castle was commissioned by Albert of Buxthoeveden, Archbishop of Riga, in 1214, and built by the Livonian Sword Brothers. The masons of the order used bricks like in many churchesand castles in northern Germany and the Baltic states. The defensive systems of the castle were strengthened in later centuries. Turaida Castle was the seat of the bailiff of the archbishop of Riga until the secularization of the archbishopric in 1566. It lost its military importance, and after a fire in 1776, the castle became a ruin.
Cēsis Castle is one of the most important castles in Latvia. It, too, was constructed by the Livonian Sword Brothers, but the original castle had been thoroughly altered when the Sword Brothers merged with the Teutonic Knights in 1236. The latter set up Cēsis according to the castellum pattern they used for their castles.
Cēsis Castle was damaged during the Livonian War (1577) by a Russian army under Ivan the Terrible. Later, the castle came to Sweden and was the property of the High Chancellor Axel Oxenstierna (1583-1654). The castle was damaged during the Northern War (1700-1720) and remained a ruin.
Haapsalu Castle was the seat of the bishop of Ösel-Wiek since the 14th century. When the bishopric was founded in 1228, the bishops at first worked together with the Order of the Sword Brothers, but after some time, the rivalry between both powers increased, and the bishops decided to have some strong castle of their own. Haapsalu Castle was altered during the following three centuries, adapting to the developments of arms and warfare. The castle grounds cover about 30,000 square metres, enclosed by walls at least a metre thick (in some places up to 1.80 metres) and ten metres high.
More information about my tour 2024 can be found here and here.
¶ January 02, 2025 3 comments
17 Jun 2024
My Spring Tour 2024 – Part 2: From Turku back to Kiel
Helsinki also offered the chance for a day trip. Turku, the oldest town in Finland, is only about two hours bus ride away, and a nice ride through an interesting landscape it is, too. I put it in this post because the other post got too long already.
Turku, the Aura river with the cathedral in the background
For a long time. Turku had been a Swedish town (Ǻbo), because Finland had been part of the Kingdom of Sweden. The town developed along the river Aura in the 13th century. When Finland became a Grand Duchy of the Russian Empire in 1809, Turku was its capital, but a few years later Tsar Alexander I moved the capital to Helsinki with its fortress Sveaborg/Suomenlinna.
Turku Castle
One of Turku’s landmarks is the castle. The oldest parts date back to the late 13th century, built on what then was an island in the Aura river. At the time the castle was the seat of the Swedish administration of the provice Eastland, as Finland was called. During the following years, the castle was expanded and the fortifications strengthened.
Turku Castle, the outer curtain walls
The castle played a role in inner-Swedish struggles and wars between the Scandinavian countries on several occasions. In the mid-16th century, Duke John of Finland (a son of Gustav Vasa) who was married to the Polish princess Katarzyna Jagiełłonka, added a Renaissance wing to the castle and altered rooms in the Mediaeval part as well. Since then, the castle was not changed nor damaged.
Turku Castle, the Renaissance wing
The castle lost its status as administrative centre in the 17th century. Nowadays it is a museum – a veritable maze of rooms, many of them with historical furniture – and a visitor magnet for tourists.
Tartu, European Capital of Culture 2024
Market square with the town hall in the background on a lovely Estonian evening
Next stop was Tartu (back from Helsinki to Tallinn by ferry, and to Tartu by bus), the European Capital of Culture 2024. Many visitors of Estonia concentrate on Tallinn, but Tartu is definitely woth a visit; it has a lot of pretty corners and a relaxed atmosphere.
Tartu, ruins of the 13th century cathedral
Tartu – also known in Germany as Dorpat – is mentioned in Russian chronicles and said to have been a Russian foundation of the 11th century, but it first played a major role during the Northern Crusades in the early 13th century when the town was conquered by the Teutonic Knights in 1224, and converted into the bishopric of Dorpat. Tartu/Dorpat also became an important member of the Hanseatic League, connecting the ways from Tallinn to Pskov and Novgorod.
Tartu, view from the Angel’s Bridge
In the centuries to follow, Tartu – and with it often at least parts of Estonia – changed possession several times during various wars. 1558 to Russia, 1583 part of Poland-Lithuania, 1625 to Sweden (when King Gustav Adolf founded the university in 1332). 1704 back to Russia.
Tartu, old wooden houses in Supilinn quarter
Estonia became independent for the first time in 1920, was contested by Germans and the Sovjet army during WW2 (in 1939, many German speaking inhabitants of Tartu moved to Germany due to the Hitler-Stalin Pact), and member of the USSR until the second independence of Estonia in 1991.
Tartu, at the river Emajõgi
The town had suffered by a great fire in 1775, and again faced destruction during WW2, but after the independence, many older buildings in Tartu have been restored. Today, it is a charming town with a youthful atmosphere due to the many students.
Sigulda Castle
Next stop was Sigulda in Latvia; somewhat northeast of Riga. I picked the town as stopping point because it has two Mediaeval castles and a third in day trip distance. It is also prettily situated in the forested hills of the Gauja National Park.
Sigulda Castle, curtain wall from the inside
The two main powers in Livonia (= basically todays Latvia and Estonia) were the – predominantely German, due to the Northern Crusades – bishops and and the Livonian Branch of the Teutonic Knights, and to some extent the citizens of Riga, most of them also from Germany. All three were at cahoots more often than they worked together against outside enemies, and so a lot of castles were built.
Sigulda Castle, remains of the great hall
Sigulda (Segewold) Castle was buit by the Livonian Sword Brothers in 1207, to control the Gauja river and prevent attacks from the bishop’s castle at Turaida on the hill at the other side. There were several mutual attacks nevertheless. The castle became the seat of the Land Marshal of the Livonian Teutonic Knights in 1432. In later centuries, it suffered during the various wars I’ve already mentioned.
Sigulda, the new castle
Since 1737, Sigulda was a private property with various owners. The Kropotkin family used the ruins only as picturesque park feature and built a new palace in the Neo-Gothic style nearby in 1878. Today that building houses the Sigulda Region Council.
Gauja river valley
The Gauja valley separates the castles of Sigulda and Turaida which are only 5 kilometres apart. The area is more hilly than Estonia with its long stretches of birch and pine forests and moors; it reminded me of the German mittelgebirge.
Turaida Castle
Turaida (Treyden) Castle was commissioned by Albert of Buxthoeveden, Archbishop of Riga in 1214, and built by the Livonian Sword Brothers; both got along at that time. They had just defeated a host of pagan Estonians who had laid siege to the wooden stronghold of the Christian Livian leader Caupo. The masons of the order used bricks like in Małbork Castle and in most churches in Germany and the Baltic states.
Turaida Castle, the western building
Turaida Castle saw another siege when the citiziens of Riga – allied with the still pagan Lithuanians – attacked the Livonian Order in 1298. The Order was defeated, but after it received reinforcements from the Teutonic Knights, the residents of Riga and Lithuanians were defeated in turn.
Turaida Castle, the north-eastern wing
The defensive systems of the castle were improved in later centuries, esp. in the early 15th century as firearms became more common. At that time, the semi-rounded western tower was erected. The inner yard was filled with domestic buildings.
Turaida Castle was the seat of the bailiff of the archbishop of Riga until the secularization of the archbishopric in 1566. It lost its military importance, and after a fire in 1776, the castle became a ruin.
Cēsis Castle
Cēsis (Wenden) Castle is one of the most important castles in Latvia. It, too, was constructed by the Livonian Sword Brothers on the site of a tribal fortification, after the local tribe, the Wends, had been converted to Christianity. But the original castle from 1214 had been thoroughly altered when the Livonian Sword Brothers merged with the Teutonic Knights in 1236. The latter set up Cēsis according to the castellum pattern they used for their castles. Only the old chapel remained unchanged.
Cēsis Castle, remains of the hall
The castle became the seat of the commander (Komtur) of the Livonian Branch of the Teutonic Knights and the Order’s administrative headquarter for Livonia. During the rule of Wolter von Plettenberg (1450-1535), Cēsis Castle was fortified with additional towers to suit the upcoming artillery warfare, and the chapter hall and master’s chamber underwent changes to make them look more grand.
Cēsis Castle, inside the round tower
Cēsis Castle was damaged during the Livonian War (1577) by a Russian army under Ivan the Terrible. Later, the castle came to Sweden and was the property of the High Chancellor Axel Oxenstierna. In 1681, the Swedes put a garrison in the castle who obvioulsy went rough on the movable goods, including timbers and lead. The castle was further damaged during the Northern War (1700-1720) and remained a ruin.
Open Air Museum Molfsee/Kiel, a barn from Wilmsdorf
The ferry from Klaipeda arrives at Kiel in the evening, so I prefer to stay overnight and take the train home the next afternoon (better connections). Last year, I used the time for a boat tour on the Kiel Firth, this year I visited the Open Air Museum Molfsee. I had been there as a child, but that was quite a few years ago. :-)
Molfsee – house from Barsbek
The museum collects farm houses, barns, cottages, mills and more from all over the county of Schleswig-Holstein. Those buildings are often still in decent shape but are no longer used because they are too old-fashioned. So they are deconstructed and rebuilt/renovated on the museum grounds. The oldest house dates to 1596, but most are from the 18th/19th centuries.
Frisian house from Westerland, with the typical whale bone gate
The museum first opened in 1958 and has grown ever since. Today, there are more than 70 houses and other buildings. The historical northern German houses are pretty different from the ones I’ve seen in the Baltics and Finland; mostly half timbered or constructed of bricks.
Roses in the Botanical Garden Tartu
I’ll leave you with some pretty roses from the Botanical garden in Tartu.
¶ June 17, 2024 1 comments
Helsinki also offered the chance for a day trip. Turku, the oldest town in Finland, is only about two hours bus ride away, and a nice ride through an interesting landscape it is, too. I put it in this post because the other post got too long already.
For a long time. Turku had been a Swedish town (Ǻbo), because Finland had been part of the Kingdom of Sweden. The town developed along the river Aura in the 13th century. When Finland became a Grand Duchy of the Russian Empire in 1809, Turku was its capital, but a few years later Tsar Alexander I moved the capital to Helsinki with its fortress Sveaborg/Suomenlinna.
One of Turku’s landmarks is the castle. The oldest parts date back to the late 13th century, built on what then was an island in the Aura river. At the time the castle was the seat of the Swedish administration of the provice Eastland, as Finland was called. During the following years, the castle was expanded and the fortifications strengthened.
The castle played a role in inner-Swedish struggles and wars between the Scandinavian countries on several occasions. In the mid-16th century, Duke John of Finland (a son of Gustav Vasa) who was married to the Polish princess Katarzyna Jagiełłonka, added a Renaissance wing to the castle and altered rooms in the Mediaeval part as well. Since then, the castle was not changed nor damaged.
The castle lost its status as administrative centre in the 17th century. Nowadays it is a museum – a veritable maze of rooms, many of them with historical furniture – and a visitor magnet for tourists.
Market square with the town hall in the background on a lovely Estonian evening
Next stop was Tartu (back from Helsinki to Tallinn by ferry, and to Tartu by bus), the European Capital of Culture 2024. Many visitors of Estonia concentrate on Tallinn, but Tartu is definitely woth a visit; it has a lot of pretty corners and a relaxed atmosphere.
Tartu – also known in Germany as Dorpat – is mentioned in Russian chronicles and said to have been a Russian foundation of the 11th century, but it first played a major role during the Northern Crusades in the early 13th century when the town was conquered by the Teutonic Knights in 1224, and converted into the bishopric of Dorpat. Tartu/Dorpat also became an important member of the Hanseatic League, connecting the ways from Tallinn to Pskov and Novgorod.
In the centuries to follow, Tartu – and with it often at least parts of Estonia – changed possession several times during various wars. 1558 to Russia, 1583 part of Poland-Lithuania, 1625 to Sweden (when King Gustav Adolf founded the university in 1332). 1704 back to Russia.
Estonia became independent for the first time in 1920, was contested by Germans and the Sovjet army during WW2 (in 1939, many German speaking inhabitants of Tartu moved to Germany due to the Hitler-Stalin Pact), and member of the USSR until the second independence of Estonia in 1991.
The town had suffered by a great fire in 1775, and again faced destruction during WW2, but after the independence, many older buildings in Tartu have been restored. Today, it is a charming town with a youthful atmosphere due to the many students.
Next stop was Sigulda in Latvia; somewhat northeast of Riga. I picked the town as stopping point because it has two Mediaeval castles and a third in day trip distance. It is also prettily situated in the forested hills of the Gauja National Park.
The two main powers in Livonia (= basically todays Latvia and Estonia) were the – predominantely German, due to the Northern Crusades – bishops and and the Livonian Branch of the Teutonic Knights, and to some extent the citizens of Riga, most of them also from Germany. All three were at cahoots more often than they worked together against outside enemies, and so a lot of castles were built.
Sigulda (Segewold) Castle was buit by the Livonian Sword Brothers in 1207, to control the Gauja river and prevent attacks from the bishop’s castle at Turaida on the hill at the other side. There were several mutual attacks nevertheless. The castle became the seat of the Land Marshal of the Livonian Teutonic Knights in 1432. In later centuries, it suffered during the various wars I’ve already mentioned.
Since 1737, Sigulda was a private property with various owners. The Kropotkin family used the ruins only as picturesque park feature and built a new palace in the Neo-Gothic style nearby in 1878. Today that building houses the Sigulda Region Council.
The Gauja valley separates the castles of Sigulda and Turaida which are only 5 kilometres apart. The area is more hilly than Estonia with its long stretches of birch and pine forests and moors; it reminded me of the German mittelgebirge.
Turaida (Treyden) Castle was commissioned by Albert of Buxthoeveden, Archbishop of Riga in 1214, and built by the Livonian Sword Brothers; both got along at that time. They had just defeated a host of pagan Estonians who had laid siege to the wooden stronghold of the Christian Livian leader Caupo. The masons of the order used bricks like in Małbork Castle and in most churches in Germany and the Baltic states.
Turaida Castle saw another siege when the citiziens of Riga – allied with the still pagan Lithuanians – attacked the Livonian Order in 1298. The Order was defeated, but after it received reinforcements from the Teutonic Knights, the residents of Riga and Lithuanians were defeated in turn.
The defensive systems of the castle were improved in later centuries, esp. in the early 15th century as firearms became more common. At that time, the semi-rounded western tower was erected. The inner yard was filled with domestic buildings.
Turaida Castle was the seat of the bailiff of the archbishop of Riga until the secularization of the archbishopric in 1566. It lost its military importance, and after a fire in 1776, the castle became a ruin.
Cēsis (Wenden) Castle is one of the most important castles in Latvia. It, too, was constructed by the Livonian Sword Brothers on the site of a tribal fortification, after the local tribe, the Wends, had been converted to Christianity. But the original castle from 1214 had been thoroughly altered when the Livonian Sword Brothers merged with the Teutonic Knights in 1236. The latter set up Cēsis according to the castellum pattern they used for their castles. Only the old chapel remained unchanged.
The castle became the seat of the commander (Komtur) of the Livonian Branch of the Teutonic Knights and the Order’s administrative headquarter for Livonia. During the rule of Wolter von Plettenberg (1450-1535), Cēsis Castle was fortified with additional towers to suit the upcoming artillery warfare, and the chapter hall and master’s chamber underwent changes to make them look more grand.
Cēsis Castle was damaged during the Livonian War (1577) by a Russian army under Ivan the Terrible. Later, the castle came to Sweden and was the property of the High Chancellor Axel Oxenstierna. In 1681, the Swedes put a garrison in the castle who obvioulsy went rough on the movable goods, including timbers and lead. The castle was further damaged during the Northern War (1700-1720) and remained a ruin.
The ferry from Klaipeda arrives at Kiel in the evening, so I prefer to stay overnight and take the train home the next afternoon (better connections). Last year, I used the time for a boat tour on the Kiel Firth, this year I visited the Open Air Museum Molfsee. I had been there as a child, but that was quite a few years ago. :-)
The museum collects farm houses, barns, cottages, mills and more from all over the county of Schleswig-Holstein. Those buildings are often still in decent shape but are no longer used because they are too old-fashioned. So they are deconstructed and rebuilt/renovated on the museum grounds. The oldest house dates to 1596, but most are from the 18th/19th centuries.
The museum first opened in 1958 and has grown ever since. Today, there are more than 70 houses and other buildings. The historical northern German houses are pretty different from the ones I’ve seen in the Baltics and Finland; mostly half timbered or constructed of bricks.
I’ll leave you with some pretty roses from the Botanical garden in Tartu.
¶ June 17, 2024 1 comments
12 Jun 2024
My Spring Tour 2024 – Part 1: From Riga to Helsinki
This year I wanted to complete the tour of the Baltic States, and since it’s only two hours by ferry from Tallinn to Helsinki, I decided to add a bit of Finland to the list. I enjoyed three weeks of mostly sunshine and temperatures unusually warm to hot for the countries so far north. The Fins were shaking their heads at +28 °C in late May; they are more used to about 15 °C and rain. There are also those lovely long and still bright evenings of the North I remembered from my time in Stockholm.
Helsinki archipelago
I started my tour with Riga in Latvia. I had visited the town during the Baltic Sea Cruise in 2012, but while there was reasonable time to see the most important sites, it was not enough for the less touristy places and also, there were still buildings undergoing renovation.
Riga, lane in the Konventa Sēta courtyard
The Convent Courtyard (Konventa Sēta) is situated on the former site of the first castle of the Order of the Teutonic Knights which was destroyed by the citizens of Riga in 1297. Afterwards, the place was used as a convent, and since the late 15th century, as an almshouse – in fact, several small houses that constitute the ‘yard’ – for the poor. Nowadays, most of the houses are a hotel; others are used for exhibitions.
Riga, Cathedral Square
The cathedral and cathedral square had been among the places where renovation works were going on during my first visit, so it was nice to see the place and the cathedral without scaffoldings and closed doors this time.
Riga, Freedom Monument
The 42 metres high Freedom Monument was erected in 1935. It commemorates the victims of the Latvian War of Independence (1918-1920), and is since then an important symbol for Latvia’s independence as well as a gathering place.
Riga, the canal separating the old town from the centre
Another sight I missed last time was the pretty park along part of the canal that separates Riga’s old town – Vecrīga – from the new town and the modern city. The canal fills the old moat of the former landside defense walls of Riga and is connected to the Daugava river. A nice place for a break.
Tallinn, little hidden lane
I always wanted to go back to the Estonian capital Tallinn which is another city I visited briefly in 2012. This time I could really explore the lovely old town and enjoy the warm and sunny evenings.
Tallinn, the castle
Tallinn is divided into the Toompea Hill with the castle, St. Mary’s Cathedral, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, and a lot of pretty houses, and All-linn, the lower town with the town hall, several more churches, the remaining town fortifications, and many more pretty old houses.
Tallinn, houses on the Toompea Hill
I spent hours walking the streets and lanes, trying to get photos with not too many tourists standing in the way. The light also changed from the bright midday sun with its clear cut shadows to the softer evening light with its gentle tones of muted turqoius and pink.
Tallinn, another charming corner in the old town
You see, I got plenty of photos. Walking the old town makes thirsty and the heat addad a craving for ice cream, but fortunately, there are cafés and restaurants aplenty, though the prices are more like western European cities these days.
Tallinn, modern skyscrapers in the city, seen from the castle hill
The modern city centre of Tallinn is rapidly growing. Usually, the high rise houses are built in the suburbs around the cities (like in Vilnius), but in Tallinn, some can be found in the city proper, not far from the historical centre. Their modern designs – contrary to the boring concrete blocks of Sovyet times – fit surprisingly well.
Haapsalu, the old spa house
I made some day trips from Tallinn. One led me to Haapsalu, a charming little town with pretty timber houses that had been a famous spa town in the 19th century, attracting even the Russian tsar. Today, it is quite laid back.
Haapsalu, the bishop’s castle
But the real reason I visisted Haapsalu looks more like this. *grin* The town got a whopping big castle, the so-called Bishop’s Castle.
Haapsalu Castle, view to the main hall and the church
The castle was the seat of the bishop of Ösel-Wiek since the 14th century. When the bishopric was founded in 1228, the bishops at first worked together with the Order of the Sword Brothers (later merged with the Teutonic Knights), but after some time, the rivalry between both powers increased, and the bishops decided to have a strong castle of their own.
Haapsalu Castle, curtain walls
The buildings were altered several times during the following three centuries, adapting to the developments of arms and warfare. The castle grounds cover about 30,000 square metres, enclosed by walls at least a metre thick (in some places up to 1.80 metres) and ten metres high.
Rakvere Castle
Another Estonian castle I visited is Rakvere. It was built in the early 14th century during the Danish rule of that part of Estonia. It came to the Livonian Order of the Sword Brothers in 1343. It was badly damaged during various wars in the 17th century, albeit the ruins are still quite impressive,
Rakvere Castle, detail of the inner bailey
Unfortunately, there was some sort of concert with very loud music, so the yard was crowded with people, the great hall closed, and the noise (it was not my sort of music) drove me off sooner than I had intended.
Tallinn, park in Kadriorg
So I took the bus back to Tallinn and spent some time on a shadowy bench in the park in the Kadriorg quarter. Then I went to find some midge repellent. *grin*
Helsinki, harbour front with the cathedral in the background
Next station was Helsinki. The city, being a much younger capital, doesn’t have an old town like Riga and Tallinn – and many other cities, but Helsinki still has some landmarks popular with tourists and inhabitants alike.
Helsinki, Senate Square
One of these is the Senate Square with its steps leading up to the cathedral and the classicist buildings on both sides. The one you can see on the photo, which was taken on the steps, is the University of Helsinki (or, to be exact, one of its buildings spread across the city, and the most famous).
Helsinki, the Rock Church
Another site worth visiting is the Rock Church, a Lutheran church built in 1969. It was delved directly into the rock, with the walls left as roughly hewn rock surfaces. The dome is made of copper with skylights which are the only light source of the church. The design is pretty unusual but beautiful.
Helsinki, Open Air Museum Seurasaari
The Open Air Museum Seurasaari is located on an island close to the city and displays historical houses mostly of the 18th/19th centuries from all over Finland. The grounds are open all year round, but the interior of the houses can only be seen during summer, which means June to August.
Very Finnish - the park of Seurasaari
So no peek at historical Finnish furniture (which is probably not that different from the examples displayed at Rumšiškes, but a nice walk in the forest, despite the midges.
Suomenlinna, fortification walls
Some islands out of Helsinki are taken up by the fortress of Suomenlinna, the ‘Finnish Fortress’, the former Sveaborg (= Castle of Sweden, Viaporg in Finnish), since its oldest parts were built in 1748 when most of Finland belonged to Sweden. The fortress protected the coast and served as base for a fleet.
Suomenlinna, walkway on the earthen sea wall
Sweden lost the fortress to Russia during the Finnish War 1808 when Finland became a Grand Duchy under Russian supremacy. After the Russian Revolution, Finland gained its independency, and the fortress, now named Suomenlinna, became a Finnish stronghold. The whole complex is vast and takes several hours to explore.
Suomenlinna, barrack buildings
The next part of my tour will follow in a few days – three weeks and some 3,800 photos is too much for one post.
¶ June 12, 2024 2 comments
This year I wanted to complete the tour of the Baltic States, and since it’s only two hours by ferry from Tallinn to Helsinki, I decided to add a bit of Finland to the list. I enjoyed three weeks of mostly sunshine and temperatures unusually warm to hot for the countries so far north. The Fins were shaking their heads at +28 °C in late May; they are more used to about 15 °C and rain. There are also those lovely long and still bright evenings of the North I remembered from my time in Stockholm.
I started my tour with Riga in Latvia. I had visited the town during the Baltic Sea Cruise in 2012, but while there was reasonable time to see the most important sites, it was not enough for the less touristy places and also, there were still buildings undergoing renovation.
The Convent Courtyard (Konventa Sēta) is situated on the former site of the first castle of the Order of the Teutonic Knights which was destroyed by the citizens of Riga in 1297. Afterwards, the place was used as a convent, and since the late 15th century, as an almshouse – in fact, several small houses that constitute the ‘yard’ – for the poor. Nowadays, most of the houses are a hotel; others are used for exhibitions.
The cathedral and cathedral square had been among the places where renovation works were going on during my first visit, so it was nice to see the place and the cathedral without scaffoldings and closed doors this time.
The 42 metres high Freedom Monument was erected in 1935. It commemorates the victims of the Latvian War of Independence (1918-1920), and is since then an important symbol for Latvia’s independence as well as a gathering place.
Another sight I missed last time was the pretty park along part of the canal that separates Riga’s old town – Vecrīga – from the new town and the modern city. The canal fills the old moat of the former landside defense walls of Riga and is connected to the Daugava river. A nice place for a break.
I always wanted to go back to the Estonian capital Tallinn which is another city I visited briefly in 2012. This time I could really explore the lovely old town and enjoy the warm and sunny evenings.
Tallinn is divided into the Toompea Hill with the castle, St. Mary’s Cathedral, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, and a lot of pretty houses, and All-linn, the lower town with the town hall, several more churches, the remaining town fortifications, and many more pretty old houses.
I spent hours walking the streets and lanes, trying to get photos with not too many tourists standing in the way. The light also changed from the bright midday sun with its clear cut shadows to the softer evening light with its gentle tones of muted turqoius and pink.
You see, I got plenty of photos. Walking the old town makes thirsty and the heat addad a craving for ice cream, but fortunately, there are cafés and restaurants aplenty, though the prices are more like western European cities these days.
The modern city centre of Tallinn is rapidly growing. Usually, the high rise houses are built in the suburbs around the cities (like in Vilnius), but in Tallinn, some can be found in the city proper, not far from the historical centre. Their modern designs – contrary to the boring concrete blocks of Sovyet times – fit surprisingly well.
I made some day trips from Tallinn. One led me to Haapsalu, a charming little town with pretty timber houses that had been a famous spa town in the 19th century, attracting even the Russian tsar. Today, it is quite laid back.
But the real reason I visisted Haapsalu looks more like this. *grin* The town got a whopping big castle, the so-called Bishop’s Castle.
The castle was the seat of the bishop of Ösel-Wiek since the 14th century. When the bishopric was founded in 1228, the bishops at first worked together with the Order of the Sword Brothers (later merged with the Teutonic Knights), but after some time, the rivalry between both powers increased, and the bishops decided to have a strong castle of their own.
The buildings were altered several times during the following three centuries, adapting to the developments of arms and warfare. The castle grounds cover about 30,000 square metres, enclosed by walls at least a metre thick (in some places up to 1.80 metres) and ten metres high.
Another Estonian castle I visited is Rakvere. It was built in the early 14th century during the Danish rule of that part of Estonia. It came to the Livonian Order of the Sword Brothers in 1343. It was badly damaged during various wars in the 17th century, albeit the ruins are still quite impressive,
Unfortunately, there was some sort of concert with very loud music, so the yard was crowded with people, the great hall closed, and the noise (it was not my sort of music) drove me off sooner than I had intended.
So I took the bus back to Tallinn and spent some time on a shadowy bench in the park in the Kadriorg quarter. Then I went to find some midge repellent. *grin*
Next station was Helsinki. The city, being a much younger capital, doesn’t have an old town like Riga and Tallinn – and many other cities, but Helsinki still has some landmarks popular with tourists and inhabitants alike.
One of these is the Senate Square with its steps leading up to the cathedral and the classicist buildings on both sides. The one you can see on the photo, which was taken on the steps, is the University of Helsinki (or, to be exact, one of its buildings spread across the city, and the most famous).
Another site worth visiting is the Rock Church, a Lutheran church built in 1969. It was delved directly into the rock, with the walls left as roughly hewn rock surfaces. The dome is made of copper with skylights which are the only light source of the church. The design is pretty unusual but beautiful.
The Open Air Museum Seurasaari is located on an island close to the city and displays historical houses mostly of the 18th/19th centuries from all over Finland. The grounds are open all year round, but the interior of the houses can only be seen during summer, which means June to August.
So no peek at historical Finnish furniture (which is probably not that different from the examples displayed at Rumšiškes, but a nice walk in the forest, despite the midges.
Some islands out of Helsinki are taken up by the fortress of Suomenlinna, the ‘Finnish Fortress’, the former Sveaborg (= Castle of Sweden, Viaporg in Finnish), since its oldest parts were built in 1748 when most of Finland belonged to Sweden. The fortress protected the coast and served as base for a fleet.
Sweden lost the fortress to Russia during the Finnish War 1808 when Finland became a Grand Duchy under Russian supremacy. After the Russian Revolution, Finland gained its independency, and the fortress, now named Suomenlinna, became a Finnish stronghold. The whole complex is vast and takes several hours to explore.
The next part of my tour will follow in a few days – three weeks and some 3,800 photos is too much for one post.
¶ June 12, 2024 2 comments
