The Lost Fort

My Travel and History Blog, Focussing mostly on Roman and Mediaeval Times


24 Apr 2026
  Canals, Windmills, and Tulips – A River Cruise through the Netherlands

… and a little bit of Belgium. The Netherlands got plenty of rivers, canals of various sizes, and lakes, therefore a tour by boat will get you to a fair number of places in ten days. This 'Back with Booty' post will include not only tulips and windmills, but also several charming Dutch towns – most of them with canals – and some other sights like cathedrals and harbour impressions.

The weather was a mixed affair, including everything from below 10°C with rain and lots of wind to balmy 20°C and sunshine. Sometimes changing within a single day. I had to tamper with some of the photos that had ended up on the Dark Side.

Morning on a canal in the Netherlands

The tour started in Cologne in Germay. I arrived a day early so I could visit the High Cathedral Church at Cologne, as it is officially called (short: Kölner Dom). It is a landmark of Gothic architecture, the tallest twin spired church in the world (157 m / 515 ft), a World Heritage site since 1996, and one of the most visited places in Germany – esp. on an Easter weekend when pilgrims join the tourists.

What attracts the prilgrims are the relics of the Three Magi that had been brought fom Italy during the reign of Friedrich Barbarossa (1164). Cologne at that time already had a large church dating to Carolingian times, but the increasing number of pilgrims to the shrine of the Magi required the size and prestige of a larger church in a more 'modern' architecture.
Cologne, the cathedral, south side

Parts of the old church were taken down, and construction of the new cathedral started in 1248. It turned out to be the beginning of a building history that would last 600 years.

The new choir was finished in 1322. Protected by a provisionally wall to the west, it could be used as church and place for the shrine. By 1528, the naves and transept were completed to part of their intended height – sufficient to insert the large glass windows –, the southern tower still unfinished (though already rising to 56 metres) and the northern tower not even begun, when money became short, and the entire process was stopped after roofs had been put on the naves.
Cologne, the cathedral, main nave

For the next 300 years, Cologne Cathedral had an imposing choir, a half finished but still impressive tower, and a rather lower middle part. It would take until the 1840ies when interest and money donations increased again, so that the cathedral could be finished according to the old plans, which gives it a uniform aspect despite the long break. The building was badly damaged during WW2, but by now, the cathedral is complete, albeit undergoing regular repairs.
Rotterdam, river harbour at the Maas with outgoing river transport

Rotterdam exists since the Middle Ages, but because the city was destroyed during WW2, it was decided not to try to reconstruct the old centre, but instead to turn Rotterdam into a modern logistic and economic hub of the Netherlands. Thus the town not only has the largest seaport in Europe but also an impressive array of skyscrapers – at least by European standards – in various designs.

One advantage is the city's situation at the outer end of the Rhine delta which connects it with the North Sea as well as the Rhine and its tributaries that in turn provide one of the main routes of the waterway transport system in western Europe.

Rotterdam, Erasmus Bridge

The Erasmus Bridge is a combined cable-stayed and bascule bridge. It was designed by Ben van Berkel and completed in 1996. The asymmetrical cable-stayed section of the bridge is supported by a single steel pylon of 139 m height which is nicknamed 'the Swan'. The longer part of the asymmetrical setup spans a 410 m long section (allowing passage of lower ships in the middle, on a width of 278 m). To the side is a bascule bridge of 89 metres that can be opened for larger vessels – the entire length of the bridge is 800 metres.

Delft, one of several canals

Delft is one of the oldest Dutch towns, with a lot of houses from the Brabantian Gothic and Renaissance still intact despite a fire in the 16th and the explosion of the powder magazine in the 17th century. As result of the Declaration of Independence of the Netherlands from Spain in 1581, glazed earthernware makes moved in from Flanders and created the famous Delft Blue pottery. A visit to one of the factories was part of the tour, and …erm, a little horse figurine came home with me. *grin*

The founding of the Dutch East India Company in 1602 gave Delft an additional boost in importance, but in the late 17th century, the town was replaced by Rotterdam and Den Haag as trade and government centres.

Lane in Delft. With raindrops on the camera lens

Unfortunately, the visit to Delft was the one day where it poured for hours. I had tired of juggling an umbrella and my camera during the Norway tour, and decided to buy a camera protection. Bad idea. The thing got in the way, fluttered in the wind, made im impossible to read the display, and didn't really protect the lens. So I threw it away and dealt with the raindrops on the lens. I took fewer photos than intended, though, which is a pity because the town is really lovely.

Ghent, view to Korenlei and Graslei

Next came the loop to Belgium. I already had visited Ghent during my Flanders tour in 2017, but it was nice to stroll some of the places again and get a Belgian waffle. I did not take many photos, though.

The same goes for Antwerp, therefore I opted for the day trip to Brussels.

The Atomium in Brussels

There was a photostop at the Atomium. The Atomium was built in 1958 as part of the Brussel's Wold Fair by engineer André Waterkeyn and architects André and Jean Polak to demonstrate Belgian engineering skills. It represents an iron crystal magnified 165 billion times, with a height of 102 metres. The nine globes that house exhibitions and a restaurant, are 18 m in diameter and can be accessed by lifts and stairs in the connecting steel tubes.

Brussels, the historical town square

Brussels, capital of Belgium, seat of the NATO headquarters and many EU institutions, is larger than Ghent, Bruges or Antwerp, but the historical centre around the market square and the town hall can be explored in a few hours. The market square is impressive, though, with its Gothic town hall and Renaissance and Baroque houses – complete with gilded decorative elements – on all four sides.

Middelburg, historical merchants' houses at the harbour

Next stop was Middelburg, and finally the sun decided to peek out. Middelburg is the capital of the Dutch province Zeeland. During the Middle Ages, it was an important centre in the trade between Flanders and England. Later, it became a member of the Dutch East India Company (a combined trade and joined stock company which traded in spices and other goods from the east, including slaves) and prospered further– many houses of the rich merchants can still be seen.

Middelburg, the Renaissance town hall

The town hall of Middelburg is one of the most beautiful Gothic buildings in the Netherlands, constructed 1452-1520 by several generations of the Keldermans family of masons. The facade is decorated with statues of 25 counts and countesses of Zeeland and red-white window shutters.

Middelburg, lane with old houses

The next day was sunny as well, so one could observe the landscape from the sun deck. We passed, among other sights, the windmills at Kinderdijk.

The 19 windmills of Kinderdijk (behind the dyke and thus only half-seen in the photo) were built in 1740 to keep water out of the polder. The Netherlands lie partly below sea level; the land was expanded by dyking and draining marshes since the Middle Ages, but the technology of using a series of mills allowed for drainage of larger areas. Today, more advanced technologies are used to keep those lands from being flooded, but the windmills at Kinderdijk remain as tourist attraction.

Two of the windmills at Kinderdijk

The ship did not get an overnight slot in the Amsterdam harbour, so we stopped at Utrecht, which gave me an unplanned evening in that pretty town. There was still enough light to take photos and sit at the canal til past sunset afterwards.

Utrecht, the Oudegracht

The first impression of Utrecht's historical centre was lots of bicycles, and lots of students being out on a balmy spring evening. The old houses along the Oudegracht canal have those peculiar storage cellars that stretch close to the water while the houses proper rise on the other side of the lanes. Many of those cellars now house restaurants and shops.

Utrecht, bridge across the Oudegracht

Utrecht, situated at the Old Rhine and connected to the North Sea by canals, has been a religious (episcopal see since 799) and trade centre of the Netherlands, holding city rights since 1122 – they were granted by the Holy Roman Emperor Heinrich V; at the time parts of the Netherlands belonged to the German Reich. Utrecht was replaced in importance by Amsterdam only in the late 17th century. Today, the city is a famous university town and the hub of all train connections in the Netherlands.

Utrecht, cathedral tower

The Gotic cathedral – like in most cases – had earlier predecessors. The present building was begun in 1254, using the cathedral in Cologne as example. The choir and westwork were rebuilt first, the naves would take until 1500 to be finished. A severe storm destroyed the main nave in 1674; afterwards, the crossing was closed off by a wall, and the rubble removed to create a square between the choir and the western tower which rises to 112.5 metres – the highest church tower in the Netherlands.

The park at Keukenhof

When a slot in the tour to Keukenhof was offered, I decided for that tour instead of visiting Amsterdam. The smaller towns are cuter, and tulips in sunshine looked like a good idea. Many other tourists thought the same, but it nevertheless was a nice afternoon.

The park at Egeskov Castle in Denmark has one section with tulips, but in Keukenhof, they can be found spread out in groups over 32 hectares.

Keukenhof, tulips and daffodils

The estate once was a possession of Jakobäa of Bavaria, Countess of Hainault, Holland and Zeeland (1401-1436) who used part of it to grow vegetables and herbs. Adriaen Maertensz Block, a high ranking member of the Dutch East Indian Company who was forced to retire after some illegal private business, bought the estate and had a palace built in 1641 which he called Keukenhof.

By 1857, the estate had gone to a baron Van Pallandt who asked the landscape architect Jan David Zocher to create an Engllish garden on the grounds. Part of this garden still exists; it attracts fewer tourists during tulip time. I explored that one as well.

Keukenhof, tulips and hyacinths

The idea to create a presentation ground for spring flowers was sugested by a group of flower bulb growers in 1949; since 1959 the park is open to the public.

Some 100 bulb growers provide the park with 7 million bulbs every autum; the tulips alone number 4,500,000 million bulbs in over 100 variations; besides there are narcissi, hyacinths and imperial fritillary.

Hoorn, the old harbour

Next stop was Hoorn at the Markermeer – which, together with the IJsselmeer, are the remains of the Zuidersee bay that has been closed to the sea by a great dam with pumping systems in 1932, to claim land for agricultural use (the polders mentioned above). Both are now freshwater lakes.

Hoorn received city rights in 1357, and flourished during the so-called Golden Age (1588-1672) when the Dutch Repblic became a leading maritime and commercial power as well as a cultural centre. This halcyon time ended with invasions by several countries at the same time; trade was interrupted and the republic had to spend more ressources on the military. Several cities of the Golden Age had to give way to Amsterdam; their importance and wealth declined. Today, they focus on tourism and maritime sports.

Hoorn, the weighhouse

The weighhouse in Hoorn was built in 1609. Such places were needed to weigh and value goods since there were no international standards. Weighhouses often were representative buildings, demonstrating the wealth of a town. As Hoorn's importance as sea port declined, it still played a role in local trade, esp. of cheese. We are in the Netherlands, after all. *grin*

Medemblik, Castle Radboud

We arrived at Medemblik in the evening with a thunderstorm gathering at the horizon, so I only went to see the castle and forewent photographing more pretty houses.

Medemblik is another of those former North Sea towns. It already prospered when Count Floris V of Holland invaded West Frisia in 1282 and erected several fortresses to control the region. One of those is Castle Radboud. Floris also granted Medemblik city rights.

Castle Radboud, outer fortifications

Count Floris was assassinated in 1297; in the time to follow the castle saw some action during various Frisian rebellions; the largest was an attack by Frisian pirates in 1517 who burned down the town. In 1572, Medemblik got town walls, so the castle lost its importance as shelter and fell into decay over the centuries. In 1889, it became property of the crown and was restored.

Zuidersee Museum, houses on the dyke

As mentioned above, the Zuidersee dam changed the environment to a degree that agriculture replaced the traditional fishing culture along the coast. As in the Freiluftmuseum Molfsee near Kiel or Den Fynske Landsby in Odense, some people wanted to preserve the remains of that culture before it disappeared entirely, and transfered traditional buildings to a new site. The open air part of the museum was opened in 1983. Of course, I visited that one.

Zuidersee Museum, windmill

A typical Zuidersee small town and a fishing village have been reconstructed; the houses date from the 17th to 19th century. About 140 buildings have been collected from several settlements around the former Zuidersee – some have been dismanted and rebuilt, smaller ones have been transfered in entirety (there are some photos in the exhibition showing buildings on ships).

Reconstructed town lane with canal

The town houses include a church, a butcher, pharmacy, washing house; other parts of the area display a fishing village, harbour, a polder with windmill, and a dockyard. There are also reenactors demonstrating old crafts like smithing and rope making.

Enkhuizen, houses at the harbour

Enkhuizen is another of those North Sea harbour towns that eventually lost to Amsterdam. But from the time it received city rights in 1356 to the end of the Golden Age – not the least because of its membership in the East Indian Company – it was an important town, as many of the houses still prove. Enkhuizen was famous for herring fishing; about 300 ships were active in the 17th century.

Enkhuizen, Drommedaris Tower and drawbridge

The expanded harbour and the town needed fortifications. A remains of those is the Drommedaris Tower, dating to 1540, that protects the harbour. The first two floors with the cannon holes are the oldest part; the upper floor and the carillon tower were added in 1648. The first floor once held prison cells, but today the tower is used for more peaceful endeavours like concerts and exhibitions.

Arnhem, St. Eusebius Cathedral

Last stop of the tour was Arnhem, mostly know for the role it played in WW2 as the Allied Forces tried to conquer the bridge across the Rhine. Their defeat was the last German victory, but left most of the town in ruins. Thus Arnhem has no intact Medieval centre, though its history goes back to the 9th century, and it received city rights in the 13th century. The 15th century Gothic church was badly damaged as well, but has been restored.

In the afternoon, the ship took course back to Cologne where we arrived the next morning.
 
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The Lost Fort is a travel and history blog based on my journeys in Germany, Great Britain, Scandinavia, the Baltic Countries, Central Europe, and the Benelux states. It includes virtual town and castle tours with a focus on history, essays on Roman and Mediaeval history, hiking tours, and photography.


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I'm a blogger from Göttingen, Germany, with a MA in Literature and History, interested in everything Roman and Mediaeval, avid reader and sometimes writer, opera enthusiast, traveller with a liking for foreign languages and odd rocks, photographer, and tea aficionado. And an old-fashioned blogger who refuses to get an Instagram account.


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Otto I of Braunschweig-Göttingen

The Landgraves of Thuringia
The Ludowing Landgraves of Thuringia
Albrecht II and Friedrich I of Thuringia

Dukes and Princes of other Families
Prince Wilhelm Malte of Putbus

Counts and Local Lords
The Marshals of Ebersburg
The Counts of Everstein
The Counts of Hohnstein
The Lords of Plesse
The Counts of Reichenbach
The Counts of Winzenburg

Feuds and Rebellions

Royal Troubles
Otto IV and Bishop Adalbert II of Magdeburg

Local Feuds
The Lüneburg Succession War
The Thuringian Succession War
The Star Wars


Great Britain

Kings of England

House Plantagenet
Richard Lionheart in Speyer
King Henry IV's Lithuanian Crusade

Normans, Britons, Angevins

Great Noble Houses
The Dukes of Brittany
The Earls of Richmond

Kings of Scots

House Dunkeld
Malcolm III and Northumbria
Struggle for the Throne: Malcolm III to David I
King David and the Civil War, 1
King David and the Civil War, 2

Houses Bruce and Stewart
The Early Stewart Kings

Welsh Princes

The Princes of Gwynedd
The Rise of House Aberffraw

Scotland and England

The Wars of Independence
Alexander of Argyll
The Fight for Stirling Castle

Wales and England

A History of Rebellion
Llywellyn ap Gruffudd to Owain Glyn Dŵr


Scandinavia

Kings of Denmark

House Knýtlinga
Harald Bluetooth's Flight to Pomerania

Kings of Norway

Foreign Relations
King Eirik's Scottish Marriages
King Håkon V's Swedish Politics
Beginnings of the Kalmar Union

Danish Rule in the Baltic Sea

The Duchy of Estonia
Danish Kings and German Sword Brothers

Feuds and Rebellions

Alv Erlingsson of Tønsberg


Livonia and Lithuania
(Livonia: Latvia and Estonia)

Lithuanian Princes

The Geminid Dynasty
Troublesome Cousins - Jogaila and Vytautas

The Northern Crusades

The Wars in Lithuania
The Siege of Vilnius 1390

Conflicts in Livonia
The History of Riga
The History of Reval (Tallinn)


Poland

Royal Dynasties

The Jagiełłonian Kings
Władysław Jagiełło and the Polish-Lithuanian Union

The Northern Crusades

The Conquest of Pomerania and Prussia
The Conquest of Danzig


Bohemia

Royal Dynasties

The Bohemian Kings of House Luxembourg
King Sigismund and the Hussite Wars


Low Countries
(Flanders, Luxembourg, Brabant, Holland)

Luxembourg

House Luxembourg
King Sigismund


Roman History

The Romans at War

Forts and Fortifications

The German Limes
The Cavalry Fort Aalen
Limes Fort Osterburken
Limes Fort Saalburg

The Hadrian's Wall
Introduction
The Fort at Segedunum / Wallsend

Border Life
Exercise Halls
Mile Castles and Watch Towers
Soldiers' Living Quarters
Cavalry Barracks

Campaigns and Battles

Maps
The Romans in Germania

The Pre-Varus Invasion in Germania
Roman Camp Hedemünden
New Finds in 2008

The Battle of the Teutoburg Forest
Museum Park at Kalkriese

The Battle at the Harzhorn
Introduction

The Batavian Rebellion
A Short Introduction

Roman Militaria

Armour
Early Imperial Helmets
Late Roman Helmets
The Negau B Helmet

Weapons
Weapon Finds at Hedemünden
The pilum
Daggers
Swords

Other Equipment
Roman Saddles

Infrastructure
Roman River Transport


Roman Life and Religion

Religion and Public Life

Religion
Curse Tablets and Good Luck Charms
Isis Worship
Memorial Stones
The Mithras Cult

Domestic Life

Roman villae
Villa Urbana Longuich
Villa Rustica Wachenheim

Everyday Life
Bathing Habits
Children's Toys
Face Pots


Other Times

Neolithicum to Iron Age

Germany

Development of Civilisation
European Bread Museum, Ebergötzen
The Hutewald Project in the Solling
Open Air Museum Oerlinghausen

Neolithic Remains
Stone Burials of the Funnelbeaker Culture
The Necropolis of Oldendorf

Bronze Age / Iron Age
The Nydam Ship

Scotland

Neolithic Orkney
The Neolithic Landscape of Orkney
Ring of Brodgar
Skara Brae
Life in Skara Brae

Bronze Age / Iron Age
Clava Cairns
The Brochs of Gurness and Midhowe - Their Function in Iron Age Society

Scandinavia

Bronze Age / Iron Age
The Ship Setting of Gnisvärd / Gotland


Post-Medieval History

Development of Technologies
Otto von Guericke and the Magdeburg Hemispheres
Attempts at Raising the Vasa Wreck
History of the Zoo am Meer, Bremerhaven

Explorers
Fram Expedition to the North Pole
Fram Expedition to the South Pole

Arts and Literature
The Weimar Classicism